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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Here is the start of leftoverture. Its fun. Tricky...


This route climbs the east face, at a right-facing corner. It is north of the obvious arete by 20-30 feet. After the corner ends climb the face.


No fixed gear. Bring it all.

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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 6, 2006

Led this one today. It uses small nuts and cams down low and a couple of larger cams (#2 Camalot and above) can be used up high. The anchor is tricky to set up, as there is a lot of loose rock up top. Cams seemed really helpful up here, too. A good solid lead.

By Nathan Fisher
Jun 13, 2006

A 2-bolt anchor has been added to this route. Shared with its 2 neighbors.

By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Pulled a block the size of toaster out of the climb, and since I was being lowered held it all the way down. Nothing but gravity and spiderwebs was holding it in place, definitely a belayer-killer :(
I have a hard time giving any climb 1 star, basically cause I love almost every climb I do. But this climb only barely earned 2. Its got some tricky oddball moves that I didn't love, but hey, maybe its just not my kinda climb.

BETA Warning. Get out on the arete after you plug in the high cam in the dihedral (you cant miss it). Its a little committing but the feet on the arete are as good as it gets.