|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Warren Harding, 1950s.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Mar 16, 2007|
|Comments on Left Water Crack||Add Comment|
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By Anthony Anagnostou
Mar 27, 2007
one of the most obvious and unique lines in tuolumne. you better be cool-headed and bring some chalk if 5.7 is hard for you. i think that experienced wide/mountain climbers call this 5.7, and the rest spend a lot of time lunging to knee-stances and chalking up.
four or five bolts and chains at the top. a 70 would do it in one pitch. a 60 requires a little simul (which might be spicy as the opening friction is one of the harder technical moves and the leader is run out 40 feet).
Some folks just barely toprope it with a long 60m rope if they rap in and stretch the rope out beforehand. i bring a couple nuts and a couple small aliens (and really long slings) for the first moves of the climb and the corner before the water crack proper. most folks just gun it on draws.
in '06 three tourist teenagers downclimbed all but the last ten feet of the route. in tennis shoes.
And it's totally classic.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The water cracks are great mostly for their unique climbing and the obviousness of the features. Doesn't suprise me about those tourists...I've had to warn off several from trying to climb UP it in their tennis shoes with no rope.
If you fix a line to the rap anchors on the ledge you can tick off all the routes in the vicinity in short order and the rope can double as an anchor for some of them.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Quite hard bridging, sorry stemming, moves but each one is above a big ledge. Weird and wonderful|
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 23, 2013
|I led this in July of 09' and found it totally memorable. It is awkward and scary. I did use my knees at one point as seems to be the tradition. A unique route, but you better be solid on run out 5.7.|