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Unconquerable Buttress
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Curving Buttress T 
Curving Buttress Corner T 
Left Unconquerable T 
Right Unconquerable T 

Left Unconquerable 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Probert
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Through the crux of Left Unconquerable

Description 

Left Unconquerable, a steep layback flake, is a mega-classic of the Peak District. Great holds, great gear, and a fabulous setting make it a perennial favorite along with its equally classic (and slightly easier) brother, Right Unconquerable. Start at an obvious finger-width flake and lieback a move or two to a horizontal. Another move will get you to an excellent jug in the crack. With more difficulty, lieback the flake to another horizontal at 2/3 height. From here, a tricky sequence involving a high step and small but positive handholds will get you through the crux. Finish on jugs.

Note: Different guides rate this route differently. It is widely considered E1 5b (about 5.10b), but other sources say HVS 5a (about 5.9+). It felt to be easy 5.10 to me.

Location 

To the right of the trees as you approach the plantation. Large, flat face with two diverging flakes. Anyone will be able to point the way.

Protection 

Single set of nuts. Hexes are hard to place in some parts. Doubles of #.75 and #1 cams might help, but aren't essential.


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Left Unconquerable
Left Unconquerable

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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pumpier with a distinct crux section in the middle. Not as good as the right, but still excellent.
By funkyicemonkey
From: Colorado
Nov 22, 2011

Just keep going, the rest will just exhaust you! rockin' climb