Left Side  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  23,228. Good page?    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>> Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

Description 

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
L. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
M. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
N. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
P. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
QP. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
R. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, bolts.
S. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There 

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

The Classics

Featured Route For Left Side

War On Freedom 5.13a/b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Left Side

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO