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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 4. The Folly
Left Side of the Folly
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C3
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in 4. The Folly
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Childhood's End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Book, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Left Side of the Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Layton Kor and Jim Bridwell (1964) |
| Page Views: | 1,217 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Sep 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Dirty climbing on the lower pitches accesses the clean and spectacular upper pitches. Well worth the effort. This climb has a little bit of everything from thin aid to a mega-long and burly 5.9 chimney.
For the first two pitches we climbed Childhood's End, which avoids the grungy looking 5.7 starting pitches.
Pitch 3: Climb a handcrack leading up and right to the edge of the corner (this is actually a sort of crazy feature, a hanging mostly detached arch of rock, you'll see it when you're looking back on it from further up on the pitch). Aid a thin crack in a corner up to an old bolt, then lower down and swing around the corner into a really dirty corner crack with trees in it. Start climbing from the lower tree, top-step past a bush, and finish aiding to a larger cluster of oak trees to belay. Rope drag will probably get kind of bad.
Pitch 4: More dirty climbing on hummocks and grass filled cracks wanders up and right. There are two parallel-running cracks which lead up under a big roof. Take the right-hand one. The last 20ft before the roof are C3. The placements are straightforward but you're putting cams behind a really thin and fragile flake which won't hold a fall. The gear gets thinner as you go up, and I finished by doing one free move to a super long reach to shove a cam up under the roof. People under 5'8" might have to camhook some fragile bullshit or hammer in a beak. From here it's C1 out the roof and up the sort of dirty corner (probably 5.10+ to free the corner). Belay at a sloping ledge which is caked in guano.
Pitch 5: Aid the leaning corner to a fixed pin then pendulum right to the bottom of a splitter chimney. Squeeze up a ways until you exit the chimney then climb up and left through a small roof and build a belay.
Pitch 6: An epic pitch leading up and right along the offwidth crack and chimney. One of the better wide cracks in the Valley. A #6 or two would be good to have for some of the narrower bits. After the final chimney either climb around or tunnel behind some chockstones and belay on a ledge. From here it's just a 15' pitch of 5.0 to the summit of the Folly.
Rappel the Right Side route. With two 60m ropes it's just 3 raps.
For the first two pitches we climbed Childhood's End, which avoids the grungy looking 5.7 starting pitches.
Pitch 3: Climb a handcrack leading up and right to the edge of the corner (this is actually a sort of crazy feature, a hanging mostly detached arch of rock, you'll see it when you're looking back on it from further up on the pitch). Aid a thin crack in a corner up to an old bolt, then lower down and swing around the corner into a really dirty corner crack with trees in it. Start climbing from the lower tree, top-step past a bush, and finish aiding to a larger cluster of oak trees to belay. Rope drag will probably get kind of bad.
Pitch 4: More dirty climbing on hummocks and grass filled cracks wanders up and right. There are two parallel-running cracks which lead up under a big roof. Take the right-hand one. The last 20ft before the roof are C3. The placements are straightforward but you're putting cams behind a really thin and fragile flake which won't hold a fall. The gear gets thinner as you go up, and I finished by doing one free move to a super long reach to shove a cam up under the roof. People under 5'8" might have to camhook some fragile bullshit or hammer in a beak. From here it's C1 out the roof and up the sort of dirty corner (probably 5.10+ to free the corner). Belay at a sloping ledge which is caked in guano.
Pitch 5: Aid the leaning corner to a fixed pin then pendulum right to the bottom of a splitter chimney. Squeeze up a ways until you exit the chimney then climb up and left through a small roof and build a belay.
Pitch 6: An epic pitch leading up and right along the offwidth crack and chimney. One of the better wide cracks in the Valley. A #6 or two would be good to have for some of the narrower bits. After the final chimney either climb around or tunnel behind some chockstones and belay on a ledge. From here it's just a 15' pitch of 5.0 to the summit of the Folly.
Rappel the Right Side route. With two 60m ropes it's just 3 raps.
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