|Gray Face area
This climb is a heady lead and is most often toproped. Climb on the arete or just right of the arete while placing small, sometimes tricky gear. A great climb, in my opinion, and a worthy lead to be challenged on mentally.
This is left of the Unnamed 5.8 (a.k.a. The Ironing Board and commonly listed as 5.9), starting just right of the arete.
A lot of small gear, cams and stoppers.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 26, 2012
I hope no one every resorts to putting bolts on this pitch. It's a beautiful and challenging lead. Every climb doesn't have to be dumbed down to the masses. There are classic routes all over the world that would be more "viable" as leads to people if there were more bolts to make them feel comfortable. Personally, I would love to climb the Bachar-Yerian, but I'm not comfortable with the commitment on that route. Yet it's a route that I aspire to perhaps one day tackle when I'm ready. There are countless other routes that have been climbed in good style that should be preserved as they are.