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Boiler Plate Route  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Early 1980's Paul Duval and Chris Dube.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 25, 2009

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Description 

Variation to pitch one and pitch two exist. Very old slings were found on our ascent of the lower half of the cliff. Ted Hammond led it all. I followed him in 1984?
1. Easy buttress to traverse left to the long right facing corner.
2. Up corner (5-8+) to its end to semi hanging belay.
3. Move right to shallow arches and up to long belay ledge. Sure 2-3 can be 1 pitch.
4. Ted went left and I went right after cleaning gear (5.10). Couldn't do the left way.
5. Belayed under the giant deteriorating ceiling arch climb the right end through the giant notch (5-7 short pitch and belay left on 2 bolts (semi hanging belay).
6. Climb the aid bolt ladder (5-10) to move left traversing passed a couple more bolts and trad gear (5-10+ friction). Ledges are reached belay below right diagonal arch a rope length pitch.
7. Follow arch (5-7) until it ends at another arch.
8. Follow another arch until it ends (5-7).
9. Last short pitch to top. Our short pitches can be combined to long ones.

Location 

Below the highest and widest ceiling arch is a small buttress which is the start to this climb. After the easy buttress move left to gain the right facing inside corner.

Protection 

Trad gear and 1/4" bolts. These bolts have got to be deteriorated. No rappel anchors.


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