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Boiler Plate Route  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Early 1980's Paul Duval and Chris Dube.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 25, 2009

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Variation to pitch one and pitch two exist. Very old slings were found on our ascent of the lower half of the cliff. Ted Hammond led it in 1984? 1. Easy buttress to traverse left to the long right facing corner. Up corner (5-8+) to its end belay. Move right and up to ledge belay a short pitch. Ted went left and I ended up going right to the wide deteriorated ceiling belayed under it(5-10). Up right through the giant notch (5-7) and belay left on 2 bolts (semi hanging belay). Climb the aid bolt ladder (5-10) to move left traversing passed a couple more bolts and trad gear (5-10+) until ledges are reached below right diagonal up arch a rope length pitch. Follow arch (5-7) until it ends at another arch. Follow another arch until it ends (5-7) Do short pitch to top. We did more than 6 pitches but I feel confident that our short pitches could have been combined to shorten the belaying time.


Below the highest and widest ceiling arch is a small buttress which is the start to this climb. After the easy buttress move left to gain the right facing inside corner.


Trad gear and 1/4" bolts. These bolts have got to be deteriorated. No rappel anchors.

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