Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7   5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Unknown early 1980's/first half possibly earlier. New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Jul 25, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Variation to pitch one and pitch two exist. Very old slings were found on our ascent of the lower half of the cliff. Ted Hammond led the whole day with me in 1984? The climb heads for the large left facing corner, not as hard as it looks (5-8+) belay at the top of corner and belay. Move right and up to ledge belay (short pitch). Ted moved left and up right to large ceiling (some deteriorating rock in this ceiling area) and belayed. I couldn't manage the moves left but was able to do enough to clean the gear. I went straight up instead in a slanting inside corner. Over all both ways were (5-9). Move right past the giant ceiling trough a giant notch (5-7) and belay left on 2 bolts (semi hanging belay). Climb the aid bolt ladder free at (5-10) move left traversing up past a couple more bolts and trad gear (5-10+) until ledge is reach below right diagonal up arch (this is a whole rope length pitch). Follow arch (5-7) until it ends at another arch. Follow another arch until it ends (5-7) Do short pitch to top. We did more than 6 pitches but I feel confident that our short pitches could have been combined to shorten the belaying time.

Location 

Small buttress is the start of climb. After the easy buttress move left to gain the left facing inside corner. Climb was done with stoppers and hexes.

Protection 

Trad gear and 1/4" bolts. These bolts have got to be deteriorated. No rappel anchors.