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Trashcan Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfly Crack T 
Filch T 
Filth T 
Gripper Traverse 
Hermanutic T 
Left Sawdust Crack T 
Mr. Freeze 
Right Sawdust Crack T 
Ripper 
Wallaby Crack T 

Left Sawdust Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Jan 25, 2003

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"Left Sawdust Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Just to the left of Right Sawdust crack, climb the thinner and much more difficult crack, avoiding using Right Sawdust crack at the top where it gets a little cruxy. Not too bad though, just move fast enough to avoid the pump. Would be worth another star if it wasn't so close to Right Sawdust Crack, at the top it could be pretty tempting to use the other crack just 2-3' away.

Protection 

Thin to hand sized. Best to have a couple of fist sized pieces for an anchor.


Photos of Left Sawdust Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Trashcan Rock - East Face
BETA PHOTO: Trashcan Rock - East Face

Comments on Left Sawdust Crack Add Comment
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By Murf
Feb 4, 2003

I always thought the ol' "don't use the other crack next to my hand" to make it 5.10 was a little too...gymish.
By Josh Beck
Feb 4, 2003

I agree... I'm generally of the "if I can hit it on the way down or if I can reach it while my other hand is still definitely in the crack / on route, then it's on as well" mindset. They're two different cracks and it's not that hard to avoid the right one at the top and it makes it a bit more difficult, but it is contrived. In the end though it's up to the leader and as long as they have a good time there's no right or wrong.
By Mark Whaling
Feb 4, 2003

Umm yeah, I just climbed this the other day and it seemed damned contrived not to use the other crack. But I enjoy plenty of much more contrived antics at the gym so, what the heck, why not?
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 12, 2003

I thought this crack was pretty hard at the top (for me), but avoided using the right hand crack except for one move.I thought this was a mucho fun route.
By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

A fun climb.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008

Use the other crack otherwise it's too contrived. I was leading and was only too glad to grab the right crack near the top.
By Rodger Raubach
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Gotta move fast on this one, as the submitter said. I was entirely focussed on the crack in front of my nose and ignored the R. Sawdust crack. But...I'm a purist at heart.
By verticalbound
Mar 13, 2013

Super solid moves avoided the right crack cause the west face made a good warm up contrived... Idk big word for an obviously more enjoyable and realistic 10c at the top if you don't use the right crack.