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S-Crack Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Furthest Right S Crack T 
Jingus Con T 
Left S-Crack T 
Middle S Crack T 
Right S Crack T 

Left S-Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Ohlson & Jon Lonne 4/76
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Feb 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking into the left S Crack


The Left S-Crack is not S-shaped at all (then again, neither is the Right S-Crack). It sure is a lot of fun, though. Wide crack and stem moves down low get you to a slight rest about two-third of the way up. Then it's a great slightly-overhanging jug-fest to the top. There's no real crux section to this climb, and nothing's too hard, thanks to great hands that appear just as you need them. This is a great route to run laps on.

The climb starts a few feet to the left of my yellow and black pack that you can see in the picture. Follow a right-slanting crack/chimney until it peters out, then move left and up through the overhanging section to top out near the left edge of the formation.

2 stars out of 5.


standard rack -- long slings may be helpful for the awkward anchor set-up on top

Photos of Left S-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful eggs in a raven's nest on Right S-Crack....
BETA PHOTO: Beautiful eggs in a raven's nest on Right S-Crack....

Comments on Left S-Crack Add Comment
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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Every move of this climb is good.
By Russ Walling
Jan 10, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route and solid for the grade. Downclimb to climbers left over the back of the formation.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2014

Fun route. The crack, although somewhat wide in the first 15 feet or so, protects maybe better with smaller cams. At the transition left for the summit crack, there is a gritty flared type pod to dump a 3.5 or 4 Camalot before going to hands. Anchor is funky. You could probably be able to make a variety of things work but I opted for the 2.5" crack in a boulder about 10' back. Gear was good but something was odd about it...

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