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Sven Tower 3
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Back T 
Backbone T 
Cracked Rib T 
Dermatome  T 
Ergone  T,S 
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 
Left Route  S 
Plaque Attack T,TR 
Right Rib T,S 
Shark Attack T 
Shark Tooth T 
Spare Rib T,TR 
Spinal Block T 
Spinal Cracker T,TR 
Spinal Nerve T 
Spinal Tap T 
Undercling T 

Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: Ted Smith on Oct 3, 2010

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The seemingly overhung face is really fun to climb...

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Description 

Cruxy move at the transition onto a headwall just above a horizontal crack is really really fun! Another psychological crux is found stepping up over another wall 25 or so ft. above and to the right--due to exposure, but it is a well-protected move. Very thin footwork near the top probably marks the technical crux for the climb!

Location 

Starts the same as the Left Rib Arete climb, but deviates to the right onto a seemingly blank face and stays exposed nearly the rest of the way to the top. Route E on the posted topo.

Protection 

three bolts to the headwall. A cam at the horizontal crack before the face protects a tricky move. The rest of the climb is bolt protected.


Photos of Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Transitioning across the horizontal crack.
Transitioning across the horizontal crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Open-handed climbing.
Open-handed climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: The true technical crux--smears for the feet and n...
The true technical crux--smears for the feet and n...
Rock Climbing Photo: The second psychological crux.
The second psychological crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin slab moves make the lower section of the clim...
Thin slab moves make the lower section of the clim...

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