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Left Pinball Simulator 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Tom Rangitsch, around 2001 or 2002, or Bob Murray earlier
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: LeeAB on Dec 7, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This is the way most people do the jump move.

Description 

Powerful move on thin crimps with a boulder that sits behind the problem that it seems like you could land on when you swing out.

Start on the arete of Pinball Simulator, but move up into the scooped face to the left. Make some tricky but easier moves to get established on a pair of thin edges. Bust the crux move to the edge a few feet below the lip, then reach to the square cut lip and mantle out.


Location 

This problem shares the start of Pinball Simulator but climbs the scooped face to the left of that problem. As the trail heads up the gully it will pass under a steep arete with another boulder on the right. Start on the arete.


Protection 

Pads and spotter.



Photos of Left Pinball Simulator Slideshow Add Photo
Moving from the arete onto the scooped face.
Moving from the arete onto the scooped face.
Chris E making light work of Left Pinball
Chris E making light work of Left Pinball
Comments on Left Pinball Simulator Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010

Awesome video! Nice work guys!

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 10, 2010

What happened to the video???

By Jarred Cleerdin
Jul 21, 2010
rating: V10 7C+

By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Aug 22, 2011

I think I did the first ascent of this problem with Adam Barber around 2001or 2002. Adam did the "First Arete" to its right and a few days later I was able to send this one. I called it The Valsalva Maneuver (which is the act of bearing down to take a dump), as it requires a bit of tension to do the crux. We assumed that our "first ascents" were really repeats of Bob Murray problems as he was known to get around. I wonder if the problem has broken or something because I felt it was about v8. I have always considered this my favorite boulder fa, and the satellite area has always been a favorite area of mine. Just wanted to add a little history.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 29, 2011

Tom, differences in opinion of grade are pretty easy to trace on this one. You are a skinny bastard with stupid strong fingers, while I'm a fat a$$ with lots of finger problems and have a hard time crimping anything...I have heard others call it V8 as well, but for me it took longer than anything else I've done in Ponderosa except Mario Andretti.

By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Sep 10, 2011

Lee- thanks for the praise, but you are definitely a stronger bastard than I will ever be. Guess I will take the 10- grade, since it means that I have actually accomplished a long term goal of mine, if only in retrospect.