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Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face
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Button Soup T 
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Left Peyote Crack T 
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Left Peyote Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 946
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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5.10

Description 

This is the hardest 5.10 I have done at J-tree. I fell on it twice on lead (micronuts and the smallest lowe-ball.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.

Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.

This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.

Protection 

The crux is low, but high enough to really twist your ankles or smack into your belayer and get dropped, perhaps with feet 6' off the ground and in a contorted body position. Gear is difficult to place. The gear at the crux for me consisted of a few small brass nuts and a tiny lowe-ball. Yes, it held 2 falls. After the crux the climbing is still a little strenous to place gear from for a few moves, and a fall is ill-advised. Use short slings to avoid ground-potential.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.



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By Mike Kidner
Feb 24, 2004

More of a boulder problem to an easy solo to exit than a route. The hard bit is getting up the first 10 ft. A thin layback in a corner, leads to a larger crack. People tell me a hold has broken and that it is harder then 5.10 now, this made me feel much better about how hard it felt to do.
By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 22, 2006

I agree with Mike as far as the boulder problem to easy solo. Seems like it would be much harder and heavier to place and lug pro. Stemming was the key for me.
By Rob Dillon
Jun 27, 2006

Not even remotely 5.10.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c

I've worked this thing with a bouldering pad multiple times and just get shut down every time. I'm close, but it's just so akward and super hard.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Bullshit! A sandbag even for Joshua Tree, the start should be given a bouldering grade, felt at least V3 and was unprotectable.

The techy powerful start requires powerful liebacking, stemming and a lot of awkward counter force movements that are all way to hard for the alleged 5.10 grade.

I guess the first 15 feet really don't count in the rating.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2009

Well, it is the only 5.10 in Jtree I've ever fallen off of, and probably one of the only 5.10's I've fallen off of PERIOD in the last 20 years. I'm almost 100% certain it's the only one that has pooched me twice.
By AstroDood
From: his mind
Nov 25, 2013

A bouldery, small featured and smeary lieback (eff you auto-correct) guards easy crack to the top. Free Tibet
By Tradoholic
Mar 4, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

V3 with a good landing. This is pretty tame using good technique. I would never bother to rope up on it, not even that tall!
By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 14, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this in succession with the other Peyote Cracks. Tried this on my first trip to jtree with no success, but came back recently and happened to pull through the liebacks. I chose to use one crash pad and I also used a small rack. Climbed up and jumped off several times before I threw in a .1 red X4. Couldn't really determine how the placement was but that ultimately protected the mental crux which for me was reaching the flared jams. My follower said it looked "bomber", but never fell on the piece. Liebacked to get my left hand as high as possible then changed body positioning so I was gastoning with my left and that allowed me to reach the flare with my right hand to a cupped jam. Always thought of this as a boulder problem, but upon leading it was glad to have placed gear. The crux is over once you have your feet in the flare, but the rock seems friable and it was a nice piece of mind to have a bomber #3 moving out of the initial crux to the easier terrain. The flares seemed grainy and made me wonder how often does this thing get topped out? I don't climb in jtree often so maybe for those who do climb here it's more reasonable sans rope. Get on it!!!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 14, 2015

Tradaholic,
I am quit perplexed.
You rated the climb 5.10 and commented that it is V3 (5.11c)???
Which is it?

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