Bradley White has been actively seeking out adventurous climbs up the complex wall left of Venus. If you climb here, make sure to bring your routefinding skills, sense of adventure, and maybe a gardening trowel.
Left of Venus Wall. This could be considered the far left terminus of Main Cliff.
After the first 12ft of Singed walk left up hill to the steep slab. I began at the off width bulge. Another start to it is left of this and is probably slightly more difficult and dirtier. The start I did was thought provoking. Once I figured it out it became easily done to access the slab. Center of slab the way the holds go until there is a good rest spot on the left edge of the slab. Chill out session from here on up to the great crack at midway up. After crack 10ft up pocket face to a small...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
Bradley I would be interested in checking out the routes in this area, but I have a hard time following the descriptions in you posts. Could you comment on the best couple here for me with some direction on where the climbs actually go?
Yes Matt. The area has a landmark. The red paint on the rock. To the left of this paint spot is the start to the Dirtiest Climb (I am going to 'STAY OFF OF THE SECOND PITCH'). The first pitch is a good introduction to the terrain and isn't dirty. Dirtiest climb would be trad placement learn on climb. Falling at the top off would be injurious. This corner crack ends on a tree ledge. The wall left of here is climbed, by going lower than the blocks of rock higher above. Some rocks move and when you get established on this wall, several choices can be made. Basically going left, straight up and around right and up are them. The steep crack left above the tree ledge has not been done yet. It finishes in lichen and is doable. After the lower Schist A Side wall there is the forest. Then the slab wall is ahead. In the middle and closest to get on is Scorched (the rock is very brown and looks like dirt). Scorched starts above a hardwood tree. Left of Scorched is Burned. The highest climbs to start are on the upper left side of the wall. They are Flame and Flame Proof. They are above this forest cliff line. A 4th class trail goes up at large fallen pine tree on the furthest west side of the slab. Some of the rock climbing area here is very covered with moss, pine needles, dirt, and lichen. Climbing is sort of like stepping on rocks crossing a stream, especially on Kindling. Rating climbs here has been difficult because some of the most fun climbs have had the dirtiest obstacle coarse beginnings to them. For a while most were cleaned up after first ascents. Nature will reclaim this rick. No big deal. Nature cleaned burned up by itself. Burned is the standard route up this slab. Much better with the dead pine tree gone. To rope climb, lead with a nut pick to clean dirt and needles out of cracks (especially on Burned). Although low rated, long fall potential on many climbs. Easier free soloed than doing lead climbing looking for pro. Consider a free solo process while leading and it will be fun. Most climbs have pro where you need it most. The dead trees are deteriorating and a few are on route. The area isn't bad for climbing and that is in reference to how it was. There are no bolts and there is plenty to bolt to have new and safer climbs. Not what I would like to happen. I like it the way it is although the leads may seem a little crazy, there are regularly ground fall sections. I have removed lots of dead tree branches. I like the whole area, although it must appear as one big bomb route area to Rumney clean nice pants standard, and to this standard I agree. It will never be up to these Rumney standards. Nature meets rock here and piton placements are okay if someone has. Don't be surprised if they get stolen. The rock is especially sharp toothed, making impossibly mossy and lichen covered rock slabs climbable when necessary. Little route finding and a lot more trusting it'll work out must be done. Stepping on this mossy shit on the rock is just that, like having some slippery shit on your shoe. Its not necessary. There are more climbs to be had right of the red spot. I have one route on this side of the red spot (Three Way Tie). It is no way near the red paint spot. Far right and looks like nothing to climb because it has a deep recessed basalt dike. It is easy to get to by the Venus Wall approach where the trail diverts from the vegetated ledge stay walking with the ledge. Park at the big oak tree below a large bulge of rock. The direct start hasn't been done on the left side of the bulge. Left above a fallen tree are route possibilities that go into a lot of fallen branches much higher, unfortunately. If you want to venture forth, have at it. There are some first ascents to be had. Fire Proof, Flame, Burned are my favorite upper section routes. Dirtiest Climb to Scorched to Burned would be a good combination. Three Way Tie to Scorched also Bradley White's Route, Scorched and Dirtiest Climb are my on the trail favorite routes. Scorched is better than it looks and it might be unprotected at the crux. So far its been solitude and that is what you should receive. West side has a steep exit trail that will bring you back to the forest below the upper section. This trail continues down direct diagonally to connect with Bonsai trail then down. The boulder problem overhangs above the trail have not been done. Padding and spotting won't help much. They look very challenging. Around the big rock outcrop with a crack that is next to Dirtiest Climb, is the gully to Scorched and all climbs on the left wall of this gully start here. Edge starts most left not in the gully. Doesn't have a on trail yet either. Its start is a little run out up left of the gully. Climb by faith and you'll do fine and get pro. Not ready for beginners to lead here, except dirtiest climb's 1st pitch. Loose rock has been removed. Approach this cliff like it was not at Rumney and found in the forest. It will become enjoyable this way. Don't think about all the excellent climbs at Rumney, you might become disappointed you chose this section to be at. Does have excellent views and geologically its entertaining. Privacy and open forest too. No camping if there was above this ledge would be excellent for it.
We all have our our days. Some day soon there will be a few bolts in this place because some routes are worth the effort. Too many ascents without them. No visitors by other climbers, and that goes for the lot. Interesting. Fascinating but not out of the ordinary. Peace out