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 ADVANCED
Out-of-Towners Dome
Select Route:
After The Beforetime T 
Aribas Ameobas T,S 
Close To The Edge T 
Down and Outers S 
El Cautivo S 
Left Of El Cautivo S 
Out-of-Towners, The T,S 

Left Of El Cautivo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 420', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA:  After 1996
Season: Gets all day sun
Page Views: 1,948
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2008

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Ron Roach follows the long first pitch of the bolt...

Description 

A surprisingly good route that would make a good intro to the area. The line is easy to find, easy to follow, straightforward, relatively well protected, and quite pleasant.
The Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona book (Kerry, 1997) was the only book we found which refers to the area, and details are sparse. It lists El Cautivo as the only route and refers to a picture with a line and bolted belays drawn in. To note- this route would have been quite new or non-existant at the time of publication and perhaps was largely unknown.
One might advise to bring some gear and slings for chicken heads, but no gear was required.

P1: Start off on P1 in a wide grey water-streak. Climb up on amazingly good friction passing a very short section of 5.9 climbing. After about 25 meters, the climbing angle will increase nearer to vertical, but the holds will increase in size to match. You will continue past many bolts to eventually reach a bolted belay, perhaps 190' up. We climbed with a 70M rope, but I am advised that a 50M would be long enough for this pitch.

P2: Continue up on the obvious bolted line. Another long pitch (perhaps 140' ?) will take you to another bolted belay. Again, the crux of this pitch, perhaps 5.9- is quite short and most of the climbing is pretty mellow.

P3: What can I say- cast off again onto a line of bolts. Perhaps using a few slings rather than draws on some of the bolts that are placed a little out of line, as the climbing on this pitch wanders a small bit. Near the top, perhaps 40 feet from the end the most obvious line of climbing goes directly up, if not slightly left. But the climbing and bolts dodge that and head up and right, through a final crux. While slightly contrived, the climbing there is very worth-while. Welcome to Cochise, the land of no hands and no feet. Finish on tiny slopers that seem to hold you securely, regardless of your prejudices against such things... Belay up on top on a 2-bolt anchor.

Walk/scramble off as per the description on the 'Rock' page as for Out Of Towners Dome. Or Rap 'El Cautivo' or 'Out Of Towners'. I suspect two ropes may be needed.

Location 

The route is toward the right side of the Out Of Towners Dome. Once you have arrived at the base, walk to the right (East) past the ramp as for Out Of Towners and continue for perhaps 30 meters more to arrive at the base of a bolted line through a low-angle slab. The bolts initially run through a grey water groove, and continue to the top of the dome, interrupted only twice by belays.

Protection 

A set of draws and slings, perhaps 18 or so. While the book suggests a light rack and some slings for chickenheads, we wondered if the route really ever required them, as it was pretty well bolted on any climbing harder than 5.4.


Photos of Left Of El Cautivo Slideshow Add Photo
Ron Roach follows the long 3rd and final pitch of ...
Ron Roach follows the long 3rd and final pitch of ...
Ron Roach heads right to the final crux of the rou...
Ron Roach heads right to the final crux of the rou...

Comments on Left Of El Cautivo Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Jan 28, 2008

We climbed on Out of Towners Dome last spring with 50m double nines. I have been told that El Cautivo (the route we climbed) is the four pitch route to the right of the described route. It starts on a slab with three bolts then anchors. Descent was easy down the route from rap hangers (no walk off).
By John Peterson
Jan 28, 2008

I agree with the above comment - this description is the route to the left (I think) of El Cautivo. We climbed this same route as the party above and Scott Ayers confirmed that we had done El Cautivo. The first pitch is mostly easy after the initial slab. We started the 2nd pitch up a crack (#2 camalot was the only piece we needed), then stepping right into the line of bolts.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2008

Hmmm. seems possible. The Kerry book has about 1/2 dozen lines on this dome, but there are more like 20 in total. We thought we followed the line drawn in, even particularly up top where the line goes right then back left (where 'After the Before Time' overlaps), and also where it goes past the roof at the left edge above that... And we also thought it was the only line of bolts in the area at the bottom and was where the line is drawn to start between the trees, but then again... maybe we didn't see something to the right?
Are there other books besides the Kerry book for resources?
Can you see El Cautivo in the pictures? Anyone got Scott Ayers' Email? I'll be happy to correct the page.
By Karl Kiser
Mar 31, 2008

This line is definitely left of El Cautivo. We climbed the route last week with double 50 m nines. There is no problem reaching the belays. I thought the harder moves were higher on the the first pitch (not the slab at the bottom). Again the rap is off the El Cautivo anchors to the right.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 9, 2009

So, is this route even listed in Kerry's book? I'm making a trip to Cochise in March and this route and El Cautivo look like something I'm very interested in- I just want to have some beta clarification. Is this route just literally left of what is listed in Kerry's book as El Cautivo?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2009

It is the very next line left. maybe 15 meters or so, maybe a little more. ANyway, no, it's not in the book.