Left of Center Route
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Route finding is the crux on this route, as there are so many cracks to choose from. Don't wander too much, unless you bring a lot of long runners to reduce rope drag. The Ruckman guide says that Left of Center is runout, but I didn't have any problems finding adequate protection. Lots of buckets to pull up on. I can count the number of times I didn't have a hold for each limb on one hand. Fabulous climbing for the grade, with long pitches and superb scenery from the top. Continuous and clean, this route is well worth the grueling approach.
About 125 feet left of Jam Crack Route and 40 feet left of Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed. Find the high point on the ledge and find a short vertical crack that leads to the larger diagonalling crack. There is a tree-filled ledge two-thirds of the way up. Aim for the left side of the large gap in the trees. There is a small cave in the middle of the route that isn't visible until you climb over it. The route finishes with a fist crack that continues over the top of the wall. Hike to the south for the walk-off (NOT the first gully) or walk up the ledge (North) and do the 5 rappels on Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed.
Standard rack, save some larger pieces for the wide crack at the top. No bolts, pitons, slings or chains. All gear belays.
Ben, looking for his next move on our second pitch...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the fist crack from the top of the wall.
Ryan clipping the pro.
Adam Symonds nearing the top of the first pitch of...
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