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The Testes
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Left Nut 
Right Nut, The 

Left Nut 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Ann Robertson, Mar, 1993
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 28, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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George Armstrong on Left Nut.
Photo by Todd Gordon...
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>


This climb is listed in Eric's Desert Rock as II 5.9, A1+. It is actually I 5.9. (Although I'm sure you could aid off the drilled angle and call it A1+ if you wish.). When we did the climb, there was a drilled hole for a piton (which was missing)and that was the aid move. We inserted a piton in the hole (and left it ), free climbing past it (At 5.9), and went to the summit. It's a summit, an easy tick, and fun enough. There is a route on the Right Teste, for you can see a rap anchor directly across while you are climbing the Left one.


2.8 miles past Courthouse Wash...it's on the left, just behind and right of the weenie shaped Phallus formation.


Double set of cams should do.

Photos of Left Nut Slideshow Add Photo
taylor at the crux
taylor at the crux
between nuts
between nuts
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By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There are two bolts and a baby angle protecting the last moves to the left summit. The right summit has a piton and a bolt with no hanger on the top of it.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Sep 29, 2010

ha ha! someone actually repeated this? people are crazy.....

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

didn't see any bolts. did see empty holes. three pins (and pro) protect the moves to the top. good anchors on top. fun, quick and fairly easy for the grade. beware of rope drag. i had a ton and i used long runners. good climb