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Mel's Diner
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Right Mel Crack 
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Left Mel Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darryl Nakahira, Alan Roberts, Kevin Powell & Mike Waugh, April 1983
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2003
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WWFing it on Left Mel Crack.

Description 

This is the righthand crack.

A fun climb full of very cool moves.

Good little slots lead to the first impasse; a rather ominous bulge. Good technique pays dividends here and soon the next impasse is reached. Cool high step moves will pull you through this to the last impasse, a thought-provoking but not difficult mantle.

Pull over the top to a medium cam anchor.


Protection 

Small wires, small cams, medium cams for anchor.



Photos of Left Mel Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Mel's Diner showing Right and Left Mel Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Mel's Diner showing Right and Left Mel Cracks
Phil pulling the crux move.
Phil pulling the crux move.
Comments on Left Mel Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 3, 2003

Descend down a chimney to the left.

By Graham Roff
Mar 19, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Solid crux at the bottom, rest of the route eases off a lot but keeps you thinking. Definitely a fun climb.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2004

I found "Right Mels Crack" to be much easier. Then again, I was pissed off and had zero focus when doing this one. I simply gave up on and lowered. But easy to set up due to good anchors on top if top roping. And gully easy to climb to do so. A cordelette or webbing works fine along with a couple biners and of course "Lockers"........... Might be that taller works (Taller than 5.8?) better. But deffinatly another doable fun climb.

By The Gray Tradster
Apr 21, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

These climbs were (purposely?) misnamed. The Right Mel Crack is the one on the Left and vice versa.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2004

Then I suppose I mean the "left Mels Crack"? Hell! They're both great lines............

By Josh Beck
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Like it's neighbor, excellent rock, excellent gear and fun climbing. If only it were longer.

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

More of a crack and more continuous than the neighboring Right Mel Crack. Starts up a thin right-slanting slanting crack and when a horizontal is reached the crux starts, which involves getting stood up while using flared finger jams or a lieback. Much easier but still interesting to the top. Two stars out of five.

By Dustysdawg
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Followed this climb yesterday. It had some really tenuous moves. I found it about a grade harder than "Right Mels Crack", which I had just led. I think it is more like a 10c with the Right Mel Crack being solid 10b.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 6, 2007

Multiple ways to pull the crux. I've done it 3 different ways. Very slightly more sustained than Right Mel, but an easier crux (if you suss out the easiest way to pull it), especially for shorter people. Emphasize tips to 1" for the rack. Anchor takes from .75 to #3 camalot.