This route is not bad for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizard's Hangout it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star. Futhermore, it climbs more like a boulder problem than a route with a boulder crux (10b, not 10d) a meter or two up, then easy climbing to the top. This route should not be rated 'R' as it is in the Vogel guide.
On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of each other at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The left option, which passes a flake at a bulge to reach lower angle, lower key climbing is the Left Lizard Crack.
This route ascends on good locks and side-pulls to the crux crimper then up - the rest of the route was moderate jams and edges, and much less interesting. Maybe a good first 5.10d lead for some due to it's ease (felt like 10b) and pro from the ground + ease of stepping down to rest.
This route protects with a standard light rack.
Tony Bubb starts up Left Lizard Crack, Chris Parks...
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2011
Soloed this onsight, on a 90 degree morning midsummer knowing only that it was 5.10-something. I think it gets an "R" because it's a boulder problem off the ground and most won't hang out to place gear mid-crux as it's much easier to just climb through. Eases way off after the first 10 feet.