Left Handed Jew 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Tyler Jones on Feb 4, 2001 |
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Me leading the route.
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Description Great warm-up route! First thirty feet is perfect handjams. After that, either cross over to the left into a large 5.7ish crack or continue straight up in a thin, but fun, crack. Finish over the bulge at about 65 ft up.
Protection Use pro up to 3", however #1 and 2 BD Camalots are very helpful. If you want to top rope, hike around to the top and rap a big sling around a boulder.
BETA PHOTO
| Nate on TR
| Fun in the snow!
| Perfect jams and much more consistent jamming than...
| The direct finish. Gear was better than expected. ...
| me leading
| farther up
| yet further
| nice ledge
| getting off the ledge
| In the wide section, nice ledge for the right foot...
| fun
| Starting the climb.
| Classic crack.
| Ross Downer leading LHJ.
| Mike on Left Handed Jew.
| Ross through the traverse, onward and upward!
| Easy warm-up; low angle.
| Unknown climber cruising "Left Handed Jew". Turkey...
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| Comments on Left Handed Jew |
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 1, 2001
| R.T.C.P. - This route is a spectacular introduction to crack climbing. The gear is bomber and the line is very obvious. It is also a good idea to place a piece up high before the committing move left into the final crack. CLASSIC |
By Anonymous Coward Mar 5, 2002
| First crack climb I've done outside. Also the first time leading a crack climb. Excellent climb with a commiting move to get to the upper crack. It was fun (and tiring). But it's well worth it. |
By Darrin Stein From: Milwaukee, WI Aug 22, 2002
| It's surprising that no one has caught this one. The picture shown is of Honky Jam Ass Crack, just climber's right (not counting the face in between) of Left Handed Jew. |
By Darrin Stein From: Milwaukee, WI Aug 22, 2002
| Please let me lie down!!! And when you can, please delete these two comments I just put here. I looked briefly for the correction page and missed it. Everything is just fine on this page.... I am the one screwed up. |
By Dan Battin Nov 18, 2003 rating: 5.8-
| One of the best cracks at this level. Great biginer lead, just make sure to protect the crux at the traverse into the second crack well. |
By Larry Shaw Jun 2, 2004 rating: 5.8
| Good stuff...tape up. |
By Paul Sampson Jul 28, 2004 rating: 5.7
| A great, easy, warm-up climb! |
By Chad Stebbins Apr 25, 2005
| 5.7 may be a little soft compaired to other routes of similar grades in the S. Platte (Classic Dihedral on Bucksnort, Slimey Slit on Squat Rock). I really doubt it's 5.8 (Gobble Up is signifcantly more difficult). Great climb none the less. Perfect hands up to a balance traverse left on good feet and a fun pull to restablish into the crack above. Just good fun. |
By Tim Judkins From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 24, 2005 rating: 5.7
| Great climb. There are placements for smaller (0.5 to 1.0 Camalots) above the crux, but they're sorta hidden on the right of the 10' offwidth stuff. Don't puss out (and flee to Honky Tonk like I did) because of this apparent lack of pro. Pulling the crux was hard 5.7, especially if you're not confident with your fists. |
By Buff Johnson Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.7
| The start dihedral has perfect fingers to hands, then to fingers, then to hands; great to practice hand & foot motion. Also, another variant is to fly straight up out of the dihedral to finish on a slab - very committing, the holds are there, the fall is clean, and the slab angle backs off once you grab the proper holds. In this variant, a smaller alien can be used in the finish of the dihedral as you would not need to worry about rope drag as you would on the short left traverse. Webbing and/or long slings to use (girth hitched) with two opposed boulder constrictions for the belay (both constrictions were solid). Big fat ass ledge to kick back on and take a drink, it does get hot on that rock. Also, available for your climbing pleasure is a walk-off! |
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 12, 2006 rating: 5.7
| Great Route! I don't really feel like this route is 5.8 when compared to Gobble Up or Ragger Bagger. |
By rob bauer From: Golden, CO Oct 31, 2007
| Out of curiosity, what the consensus rating going straight up above the overlap onto the face? (I thought vaguely committing 5.9+) |
By colin tuck From: Laramie May 19, 2008
| Did this climb shortly after sunset. Moving out of the handcrack at the top is tricky in the dark. traversing to the top of HJAC requires a few little smeary moves that were impossible to see. However, I would only call it 5.8 in the dark. Fun! |
By Rick Blair From: Denver Jun 21, 2009 rating: 5.8-
| The crux is truly comparable to other 5.8s I have done, so I feel the rating is fair. Big committing moves to get over reminiscent of bouldering but you can slide a cam in above the crux and put yourself on TR... so go for it. I climbed while it was a little damp, so I had to lean waaaay back to get feet. |
By Mike Wallace From: Summit County, CO Sep 13, 2010
| Linking the jams, feeling the flow. This crack is fun. |
By Jim Parker From: Lafayette, CO Jul 7, 2011
| SO good! Pulling the thin crack above (If you don't go left) feels 5.9ish and runout on the slab above. Worth doing on toprope if you go for the original finish. |
By PhillR Nov 24, 2012 rating: 5.7+
| Really fun crack that everyone should do. You can set a top rope by scrambling far right and up. There are a few boulders to sling that are super safe. Also, the greatest hand jams imaginable for the grade. |
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