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Left Hand of Darkness

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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face 
Left Hand of Darkness - West Face 

Left Hand of Darkness 

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Page Views: 12,005
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on May 21, 2008
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Claret Cup (Echinocereus triglochidiatus) near the...


The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and the Ranger Station Road - the one used to access the Lost Horse Wall.

The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.

The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.

Getting There 

Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Ranger Station Road.

East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock. The approach takes about 1-2 minutes.

West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Note: some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area. The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Left Hand of Darkness:
Granny Goose   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Left Hand of Darkness - E. ...
Browse More Classics in Left Hand of Darkness

Featured Route For Left Hand of Darkness
Salathe Free, 5.7

Salathe Free 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Left Hand of Darkness - Wes...
This the right leaning wide crack near the "end" of the formation. Fun climb and great for the beginning leader. I couldn't find a 5.7 move on it, unless possibly the unprotected face left of the top of the crack, to gain a better belay spot. My difficulty rating is generous; there may be one 5.6 move on the entire crack. Still, worth doing and well-protected from the wind!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Left Hand of Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
Fred Batliner leading.
Fred Batliner leading.
Left Hand of Darkness (North Face), Joshua Tree NP
Left Hand of Darkness (North Face), Joshua Tree NP
Left Hand of Darkness (West Face), Joshua Tree NP
Left Hand of Darkness (West Face), Joshua Tree NP
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