The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and the Ranger Station Road - the one used to access the Lost Horse Wall.
The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.
The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.
Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Ranger Station Road.
East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock. The approach takes about 1-2 minutes.
West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Note: some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area. The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.
This route starts off of a boulder between Bryant Gumbel and Grandpa Gander and features very thin friction moves with very little in the way of holds. Put on your good shoes for this one! As with all routes on this formation, relatively easy walkoff towards entrance road to Lost Horse....[more]Browse More Classics in CA