The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and the Ranger Station Road - the one used to access the Lost Horse Wall.
The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.
The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.
Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Ranger Station Road.
East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock. The approach takes about 1-2 minutes.
West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Note: some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area. The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.
This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right....[more]Browse More Classics in CA