The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and the Ranger Station Road - the one used to access the Lost Horse Wall.
The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.
The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.
Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Ranger Station Road.
East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock. The approach takes about 1-2 minutes.
West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Note: some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area. The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.
This the right leaning wide crack near the "end" of the formation. Fun climb and great for the beginning leader. I couldn't find a 5.7 move on it, unless possibly the unprotected face left of the top of the crack, to gain a better belay spot. My difficulty rating is generous; there may be one 5.6 move on the entire crack. Still, worth doing and well-protected from the wind!...[more]Browse More Classics in CA