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East Face - Lower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hitchcock Gully 
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 

Left Hand Monkey Wrench 


Type:  Ice, 1 pitch
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Randy Noble, John Bussulak, 1997
Season: winter
Page Views: 3,357
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Lauren on Left Hand Monkey Wrench


A great pitch to avoid the mixed climbing on Lower Hitchcock, or to bypass a slower party. Not a bad climb in itself either.


From the base of Hitchock gully hike north (right) along the cliff band for approximately 5 minutes. The Flow will come down from a right facing corner, making it hard to see on the approach.

[Note: In 2015 the 'path' started about 300-400 ft up Hitchcock opposite a 20-25ft high boulder/cliff on the left. (This is the first significant rock encountered.) A rising traverse to the right through trees, then on snow-covered slab (50-100ft below a rock-cliff-wall) then further up and right led to the base. I'd say "5 minutes" is rather optimistic !

To use this as a descent: from the base of Upper Hitchcock, move downhill-left (climber's right) through open slabs and and then more-or-less straight down through some trees. Best to follow a path (as we did) if you haven't done it before. Rap anchors are on a 6-8" diameter birch tree; rap with a single 70m (or long-ish 60m) down the climber's-left side to a huge double-trunked tree. Ropes will run over rock about 20 ft down, watch for potential lose rock. R. Hall]


Standard ice rack.

Photos of Left Hand Monkey Wrench Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad professing his love for ice at the base of LH...
Chad professing his love for ice at the base of LH...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chadwick topping out LHMW
Chadwick topping out LHMW
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon and Joshua gear-up at the bottom of Left Hand ...
Jon and Joshua gear-up at the bottom of Left Hand ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gene topping out
Gene topping out

Comments on Left Hand Monkey Wrench Add Comment
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By sthomas
Jun 15, 2010

Did this last season. Enjoyable, but short.

Quick word of warning: the chandelier that can form on the left side tends to be fragile. It got hit by a small chunk of ice dislodged by a climber above and basically exploded, hitting a pair of climbers racking up underneath it with a pair of microwaved sized blocks (they were fine, just called it a day after that incident).

I recommend waiting on the right end of the climb to avoid falling ice.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Dec 19, 2013

Question on the approach. Do you hike north along the train tracks, or do you scramble up to Lower Hitchcock from the tracks, hit the cliff band, then hike north? Sounds like the latter but wanted to check.
By chinos
Dec 23, 2013
rating: WI3

lower hitchcock option is easiest

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