A fun route up a right-facing dihedral with a small finger crack. Fun moves up the crack, with the crux about 1/3 of the way up the crack.
Route starts on a large ledge directly above Boogaloo Direct. Rap anchors on top, and at the base. Climb starts at the left-most end of the ledge.
Standard rack (a few small-med cams), bolted anchor
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2008
I thought this route was a bit trickier to protect than the Right Flake.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2009
For some reason, this wasn't as good as right flake. Still not sure why. It is good early lead.
Apr 3, 2010
double BD .5 & .75 will help, and I placed a 1 master cam
|By Eric Holden|
From: Temecula, CA
May 26, 2011
There is a new birds nest right at the base of this route, watch out as momma bird has been very protective.
|By Michael Bartosek|
From: Los Angeles
Jan 30, 2012
I used a few nuts, a couple of the C3 cams and one or two C4 cams (.5 and .75) and felt like I sewed it up pretty good. I loved this climb, you can stay in the crack or use a combination of crack and arete edge holds, can't wait to get back out there and take another spin on it.
|By Rob Selter|
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012
very good route, eats up the small stuff.
From: Layton, UT
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't feel like you need just small gear for this one. I placed a .75, a 1 and a 2 camalot along with 2 nuts. I felt the protection was as easy or easier than right flake.
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Nov 2, 2013
Small cams work great on the flakes. I have WC Zeroes and BD X4's. I place these as well as a #1 and #.75 C4 on left flake, and smaller C4's on right flake.
|By William Nelson|
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great route with fun lieback fingers and great protection on pretty sticky granite. I used bd c4 2x#1, a #2, a .5, a .75 and mastercam 00, a mc 3, and I clipped a couple stoppers that were stuck in crack. A fun easy lead. Prob not 5.7 compared to Tahquitz or Joshua.