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 ADVANCED
Sunny Side (Right End)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burn Baby Burn S 
Cinco Trinta S 
Dehydration S 
Heat Stroke S 
Heat Stroke Straight Up S 
Jump Start S 
Left Dihedral S 
Melanoma S 
NIMBY Factor, The S 
Right Dihedral S 
Sun Burn S 
Sunspot S 

Left Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 15, 2010

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Description 

While not as classic as the adjacent 12a's on the cliff (Sunburn and Jump Start). This fun line is worth doing once you've ticked off the other ones.

Start up at the far left side of the Sunny Side. If you use enough imagination the rock here looks like it might one day form tufa's, then you realize it is just dried mud. A harder than it looks start leads to a flake feature with good holds but lousy feet. Clip the second bolt and do your best to avoid the large area of bat guano. Head straight up from here on large jugs and closely spaced bolts. The 4th? bolt is a bit to the right which may add some rope drag later but protects the moves very well. Make a tricky move here to a large jug, then enter the dihedral on crimps and jugs. Powerful laybacking will lead you up through the dihedral with a final crux where the route slabs out and the holds die out. Get established on the slab and make one more tricky move up to a large ledge. From here the rock deteriorates but the climbing is easy.


Location 

50 feet left of "Heatstroke". The start is shared with "Right Dihedral". To the left is an uncompleted project and 45 feet to the right is MLK.


Protection 

7 Bolts to an Anchor



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