Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Harvey T Carter |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Mar 29, 2001 |
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Rick Sanders in Dihedral #1.
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Description This is the right-facing dihedral at the Side Areas at area 1. A clean finger and hand crack crack offers good jams up the ramp to the chains. This route's first pitch and the other dihedral are good warmups for getting used to the sandstone in the area.
Pitch one goes at ~5.8+.
P2: per ??: The second pitch goes free at about 11+/12-.
Protection Standard rack with an extra #1 and 1.5 Friend. Also a #4 Friend. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.
For P2 per ??: The thin sections protect reasonably well with micro stoppers (Metolius offsets are quite useful). A single set of Camalots #0.1-2, a single set of offset micro stoppers, and a couple extra hand size pieces will suffice for protection (for free climbing it).
BETA PHOTO
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Dihedral #1 (5.8 - 1st pitch).
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The Captain leading D1 on the Slabs.
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The British Invasion on her hardest tick to date.
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Matt trying to free climb the moves on the 2nd aid...
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The vistas from this area are amazing. Jim is cle...
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Me on Left Dihedral.
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| Comments on Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral |
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By Frank Stock
Jun 5, 2001
| Quality route-what you see is what you get from the ground. Low angle makes it easier than it appears though. The right angling 5.9 diagonal crack just to the left that finishes directly abouve the left dihedral is very worth doing although the start has a bit of dubious rock. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 9, 2002
| This is also known as Dihedral #1 from the old Desert Rock guide. It has 2 pitches. Done by Harvey T Carter. 2nd pitch is 10+ A3. Thin, Challenging, inviting. |
By Doug Redosh
From: golden, CO
Apr 18, 2003
| Known as First Dihedral in Desert Rock III. Can rap from chains 50' feet up. Harder than it looks, with the first of 2 cruxes @ 30'. Protects well and solid rock. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.9
| [Fun] intro to [the] area and rock there. The route [is] good on the bottom pitch, and looks good on the top 5.10 section, although I did not do that, and apparently nobody else does either. The book claims A3 to get to that, but in reality it looks like 2 bomber cams to a perfect cam-hook crack for maybe 5 meters. A3? No. I wish I'd taken a few cam- hooks or Crack'n-ups on the trip to enable me to go up for the top of this one. |
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.9
| First pitch only. Dang this was hard for me. Didn't keep my feet high enough so I was struggling all the way. Hate liebacks, so I guess I was asking for trouble: Climbed it as a thin hands/fingers crack. Don't do that! Lieback the thing, jam when it opens up for you, & rest.
Beautiful route. |
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Oct 21, 2008
| The second pitch goes clean at C2. Bring some small nuts and cams and two large Cam Hooks. Watch out for the loose blocks up top. The anchors are are in good condition. A 70 meter rope with stretch makes you to the ground barely. |
By Mikelsons
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| This is a beautiful line and it must be climbed. I lead it and it's solid 5.7. There's not much variety in the moves - just layback the whole thing. There are at least two good rests. If you're in this area, climb this one! |
By Brian Wright
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Fun route. Lots of strenuous laybacking. I used everything from C4 #0.3 to C4 #3. Brought doubles from #0.5 to 3, could have used fewer big cams and more 0.5s and 0.75s. Had to back clean some. Placed the #3 near the top where it flares open but didn't find a #4 placement despite gear descriptions I had seen. Fun route. 5.8 seems about right. |
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