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Lower Great Face
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Anchor Baby T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Left Center 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ray Northcutt and Layton Kor
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: s.kimball on Nov 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Kenny Parker sails through the 5.8 roof on P3. He ...

Description 

Here is a fabulous summertime route AKA: the Northcutt/Kor. Four good pitches, easy to find, once rated 5.6?? in Fricke's old guide and done in 1959, indeed quite historic.
Way left of center, closer to Castaway Crag than the Central Buttress is a clean section of gray wall, to its left a continuous right-facing dihedral system.

1. Begin with a prominent, dog leg dihedral. Continue it as it bends back right past a soft iron piton than a long horizontal 5.7R stretch to either the Direct Starts anchors or higher from a wire sling flake, 5.9.

2. Faceclimb up into the crux stemming corner, (small stopper or cams), undercling the roof (3 inch piece) and make a exciting move onto a big ledge, 5.9+.

3. Jam a wide flake off the ledge, pass 2 pitons and the final roof, 5.8. Belay at a small stance.

4. Nice 5.7 buckets for 100 ft. to the summit shoulder. Walk off.

Protection 

Standard with 3 inch piece.


Photos of Left Center Slideshow Add Photo
The direct start climbs a clean face just to the r...
The direct start climbs a clean face just to the r...
The 5.9 crux on P2 is under this huge flake. It pr...
The 5.9 crux on P2 is under this huge flake. It pr...
Bill Alexander beginning the choreography of crux ...
Bill Alexander beginning the choreography of crux ...

Comments on Left Center Add Comment
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By s.kimball
Nov 6, 2008

Northcutt/Kor's Direct Start: "Status Of Forces", 5.10a, 6 bolts. FA: S.K. and N.A., 2008.
By Theo Colameco
From: Boulder,Co.
Aug 20, 2009

Nice route! I'll do the direct next time!
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Aug 23, 2009

This is a stellar route. I did it yesterday with direct start and found it definitely worth three stars. We stretched the third pitch to a good belay stance near the top with a 60m rope. From there you can walk unroped safely to the descent. This crag is a great alternative on hot summer days and does not seem to get a lot of traffic.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Nice route. Did this last Saturday - was about 90 degrees down on the Front Range and was cool enough that I needed long sleeves and pants up on the wall. Seems to stay in the shade in late summer until about 1. We did the direct route which is very nice. Bolt spacing is typical for this area (don't expect Boulder Canyon comfort) - for the 6 bolts to the lower "anchor" we spanned half a 70 m rope. The "anchor" at the the top of P1 consists of a single rap bolt and a wire tied tight together. But there are plenty of places to fish in some more gear.

P2 was nice and I wasn't actually sure what the exciting move out from the overhang was. Probably goes at 9. RPs make the bottom part feel a little more comfortable, but the crux is quickly dispatched.

Stunning views of the park from the top of this wall - the hike is well worth the climb.