BETA PHOTO: Some Left Book routes, color coded....
This is a section of The Book which is distinct from other areas of the Book (like Right Book, Pages, Isis Buttress, Left Buttress, and Book of the Dead) in terms of approach, character, steepness, and difficulty of routes. Since The Book section has 70+ routes, this organizational division hopefully will help the climber who is not terribly familiar with Lumpy Ridge.
This crag is fairly low-angle and is thus friendly to those seeking lesser difficulty climbs. At the same time, some of its features are quite indistinct, thus, you can get lost on this small slab. Nonetheless, its appearance is striking from the vantage points like the Bookend and the upper reaches of the Bookmark. It does have a major ledge system (used for descents) called Paperback Ledge which splits the face. There are climbs above this walkoff ledge which receive distinctly less attention than the lower routes.
Note, this area can be particularly popular on weekends.
Hike the Black Canyon Trail from the new parking lot heading west to the old Twin Owls parking lot just past the livestock gate. Take the trail toward the Book Massif. Take the 1st left split towards Bookmark, Left Book, and Bookend. At the 2nd split, take the right split and head around the Bookmark. Hike around WEST of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up a steep wide gully, to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. It is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Left Book
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Left Book
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Left Book:
The Dog 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Beelzebub 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
X Trad, 4 pitches
Cottontail 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
White Whale 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Hiatus 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Featured Route For Left Book
Hiatus 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: Left Book
A superb, moderate route, as good as White Whale. Like that route it is actually on the Left Book, which, although it is part of the Book, requires you to follow the turnoff for the Bookmark (situated in front of the Book) and scramble around west of that rock to the base of the slabby Left Book, which could perhaps even more accurately be termed the "west Book". Confused? If not, you might yet have trouble finding the exact line of the route. The belays are all shared with ?White Whale?...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Left Book from the Bookend
Left Book with unknown climbers on Manifest Destin...
By Aaron Martinuzzi
May 22, 2010
If only this wall was dead vertical! Climbed several of these lines today and found clean rock, tons of features, great friction, and a few surprisingly splitter cracks. Atypically friendly, secure climbing as far as Lumpy Ridge routes go. Can be crowded on weekends, but hitting up a few lines at this crag is definitely a must for any Lumpy climber. Don't let the "R" on Beelzebub scare you away from that line, it's probably the best at the crag.