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 ADVANCED
Baskerville Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charing Cross Hospital T 
Don't Bolt Me TR 
Dr. Mortimer, I Presume? T 
Hounds, The TR 
Left Baskerville Crack T 
Man on the Tor, The T 
Right Baskerville Crack T 
Sound Asleep T 
Stemulation T 
Three Broken Threads T 
Weathering Frights T 

Left Baskerville Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long and Dan Dingle, May 1977
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Seth figuring out how to get into the crack.

Description 

Left of the excellent Right Baskerville Crack is this obvious line that splits the formation. Don't be put off by the width of the crack as it's easier than appearances suggest.

Make unprotected bouldery moves to gain a ledge (crux) then launch up the striking wide splitter. A single #4 Camalot or equivalent should suffice, although another large piece may be deisired if not sliding the pro with you. Smaller sized gear (2-3") is utilized to set an anchor. Perhaps somewhat intimidating in appearance, this protects well and is surprisingly fun. All in all a worthwhile route that merits one star out of five.

Protection 

Gear to 4.5"


Photos of Left Baskerville Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Holley up high in the OW
Mike Holley up high in the OW

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By Dustysdawg
Jan 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

IMO this is the best route on the formation. Have your partner spot you while you get up to the roof to place pro.The first placement is about 15 feet up(green alien). Then launch up into the big crack. There are places for a #3.5 and #4's.
By namascar
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Once you are done with the initial part, the off width is super fun. I used 2 #4 Cam's and feel like in top rope all the time (in the off width). But that initial 15''(of the route) are scary. I put a red alien in the horizontal crack in the left (after the initial 15''), and felt really good after that.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Worth the tick. Crux down low is high enough to be scary. Have a #0.5 camalot or red alien handy, as right after the crux you can get one in that protects the next move. The wide crack protects well with two larger pieces, and even pinches down to #3 camalot size higher up.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 1, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Excellent route. It's all there for the face crux at the bottom, nothing hard or weird, so don't sweat it. You can push a #4 camalot, but it gets very tipped out in places...probably better just to take two #4s. Highly recommended.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 11, 2012

Excellent face climbing down low, nothing scary but you cannot place pro till you get onto the solid ledge below the crack so have your pals give you a solid spot. The OW up higher is fantastic and slightly less then vertical so it is very very user friendly to new OW climbers! Fun Route in every sense of the word....fun!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 11, 2012

Mike Holley is ticking & commenting on all the area classics plus a few bonus routes like Left Baskerville! Good on you Mike. We did the route today and pretty glad I wasn't the leader of it! Committing moves before gear is placed on the ledge. Happy to see the upper section didn't really climb like an off-width but just as easy to get jumbled up in.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The face climbing down low is not very hard, and right before an actual move shows up, you can pop in a cam in the 3/4" range to protect the move onto the shelf. Don't pop though.
From here the climbing should be fairly uneventful and with two cams in the 4" to 5" range the wide stuff is very well protected. Of note is no actual offwidth moves are needed to climb the wide crack.
Descend via a short easy scramble over the back of the formation.