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Banana Cracks
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L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Banana T 
Banana Peel T 
Left Banana Crack T 
Papaya Crack T 
Right Banana Crack T 
Tails Of Poodles T 

Left Banana Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
Page Views: 2,694
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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matt on left banana crack


The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The Left Banana Crack is a fun, short, well protected finger and hand crack, with a mild overhang.


The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.


Gear to 3 inches

Photos of Left Banana Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Left Banana Crack
Left Banana Crack
Corey at what is probably the awkward crux.
Corey at what is probably the awkward crux.
"Left Banana Crack" follows the left-han...
BETA PHOTO: "Left Banana Crack" follows the left-han...
Left Banana Crack
Left Banana Crack

Comments on Left Banana Crack Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Short but SWEET. Excellent jamming leads to a nice stance below the crux - which is exiting the crack. A high hand jam and a long reach with the left hand to some edges will see you past the crux.

Felt soft for the grade for JTree.

Gear: two of each camalots #0.5-#3 (2 or 3 pieces are for the top anchor), and a green or yellow alien are plenty.

We descended climbers-right all the way to the base.
By Nick Barczak
Feb 2, 2009

I thought this climb felt more like 5.10a than 5.10c.
By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Feb 6, 2009

On a cool winters day these cracks - although they are pretty short - can be a nice place to climb in the sun and out of the wind. I would call this a 10c - the crux felt significantly harder than that on Tinker Toy or Taxman, which are rated 10b in my guidebook.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The easiest 5.10 at Jtree for a crack climber. The ease of grade, the simple and good protection, and excellent stances for protection and rest make this a great choice for the budding "5.10" leader.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 5, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not sure about that "easiest 10 at JTree" part. It is short, steep-ish and mildly awkward right in the middle. I'm thinking the crux is getting onto the big jug on the arete about mid height. The top-out was solid and features some slammer hand/fist stuff.
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