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Supercrack Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Left Affair 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: whenever
Page Views: 1,228
Submitted By: Devin Fin on Jan 6, 2011
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blue TCUs

Description 

Tight corner blue TCUs c3s00 c3s000 black aliens for the top. At the roof face V2 then low angle to brown soft shuts.


Location 

right of the On Slot. small ramp up to thin crack


Protection 

5 blue TCUs on down. a yellow TCU at the roof works well..



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face moves at the top
face moves at the top
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

The crack on this is tight for sure but if you have average size (male) fingers then they should fit in just enough. Use of the crack out right for the first half of the pitch will allow some relief from the tips laybacking higher up. I took into consideration the difficulty of "Fuel Injected Hardbody" (12-) which is somewhat similar when deciding on a grade for this route and felt that it was slightly easier.

Recommended rack would be (3)purple TCU's, (4 to 6)blue TCU's, green Aliens work too, (2).3 Camalots.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Hmmm, I'd say V2 at the roof, at the most.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Sep 6, 2012

i swiched the v move at the top to 2 ... yer right.. MIYG cheers