Left Affair 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | whenever |
| Submitted By: | Devin Fin on Jan 6, 2011 |
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blue TCUs
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Description Tight corner blue TCUs c3s00 c3s000 black aliens for the top. At the roof face V2 then low angle to brown soft shuts.
Location right of the On Slot. small ramp up to thin crack
Protection 5 blue TCUs on down. a yellow TCU at the roof works well..
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| The crack on this is tight for sure but if you have average size (male) fingers then they should fit in just enough. Use of the crack out right for the first half of the pitch will allow some relief from the tips laybacking higher up. I took into consideration the difficulty of "Fuel Injected Hardbody" (12-) which is somewhat similar when deciding on a grade for this route and felt that it was slightly easier.
Recommended rack would be (3)purple TCU's, (4 to 6)blue TCU's, green Aliens work too, (2).3 Camalots. |
By MIYG
From: Moab, UT
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.12-
| Hmmm, I'd say V2 at the roof, at the most. |
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Sep 6, 2012
| i swiched the v move at the top to 2 ... yer right.. MIYG cheers |
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