Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lee Vining Ice

Select Area...
Bard Harrington Wall 
Chouinards 
Heel-Toe Wall 
Main Wall 
Narrows - Left 
Narrows - Right 

Lee Vining Ice Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,781'
Location: 37.94288, -119.22309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,347
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jun 3, 2007
Forecast:
Today

70° | 48°
Thursday

71° | 48°
Friday

72° | 45°
Saturday

70° | 45°
Sunday

69° | 45°
Independence Day

70° | 45°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climber on a lower formation (yellow jacket, upper...

Description 

Lee Vining Cascade is a great ice climbing area that is located just outside of Mammoth. There are plenty of routes to climb, from single pitch to three pitch classics such as Chouinards, Spiral Staircase, The Heel Toe, and the Bard Harrington. The area recieves shade pretty much all day and starts forming usaully aroung Early November.

You can go online and type in Lee Vining ice conditions for weekly updates on how fat the ice is. The website is Sierra Mountain Guides and they post conditons for all of the classic routes. It will also tell you how to drive in from where ever you may be. There are a few nice little places in town that you can rent rooms for reasonable prices. One is called Murphys' which I usually prefer because you can get a room with three beds for about 40 to 60 bucks. Make sure you tell them your there to climb because they give ice climber discounts!

Getting There 

Lee Vining Cascade is located in the town of, you guessed it, Lee Vining. You can get exact directions on Mapquest.

Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Vining ice.  Feb 2008.  Bard-Harrington out du...
Lee Vining ice. Feb 2008. Bard-Harrington out due to fixed leak in water main. Rumor has it the pipe might spring another leak sometime soon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lee Vining Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lee Vining Ice:
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start   WI4 M6     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Heel-Toe Wall
Jango Fett   M8 PG13     Trad, Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   Narrows - Right : Dark-Colored Cliffs
Tree Route   WI3 M3     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Chouinards
Bard Harrington   WI3-4     Ice, 3 pitches, 440'   Bard Harrington Wall
Center flow    WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 230'   Main Wall
Main Line   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Main Wall
Chouinards' Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Chouinards
Cave Man   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Main Wall
Barbarians Near the Gate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 6 pitches, 550'   Bard Harrington Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lee Vining Ice

Featured Route For Lee Vining Ice
Rock Climbing Photo: route topo

Barbarians Near the Gate 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Bard Harrington Wall
Cruxes on P4 and P5. The slab crux on P5 is bolted so that you can grab the draw and swing across if the move is too hard. It's at least old school slab 10b. To descend the route: rap down the belay stations till you reach the traverse ledge (3 raps). Then climb the traverse pitch in reverse. Rap the first two pitches. Each pitch has great climbing on it, but P5 is unique to the area. 1,000's of big chicken heads!!!! From the top of the climb you can contiue up 2/3 ledges to the pipe and hik...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Lee Vining Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Vining ice.  Feb 2008.  Bard-Harrington out du...
Lee Vining ice. Feb 2008. Bard-Harrington out du...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning light on the Dana Plateau while wait...
Early morning light on the Dana Plateau while wait...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Sorrick below Spiral Staircase in mixed condi...
Dave Sorrick below Spiral Staircase in mixed condi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mono lake, pink-flowering bush, and Sierra
Mono lake, pink-flowering bush, and Sierra
Rock Climbing Photo: Tomas Huber rockin' out at the world famous Lee Vi...
Tomas Huber rockin' out at the world famous Lee Vi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tioga Pass was open so easy hike down from route 1...
BETA PHOTO: Tioga Pass was open so easy hike down from route 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: As the screw turns. Souljah 1986
As the screw turns. Souljah 1986
Rock Climbing Photo: Mono Lake tufas
Mono Lake tufas
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Chouinard Falls!!!
Climbers on Chouinard Falls!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Lee vining area showing approach hike.
BETA PHOTO: Map of Lee vining area showing approach hike.
Rock Climbing Photo: Two obscure classics, Red Rocks prolific first asc...
Two obscure classics, Red Rocks prolific first asc...
Rock Climbing Photo: These two formations are just below Ellery Lake. S...
BETA PHOTO: These two formations are just below Ellery Lake. S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chouinard Falls!!
Chouinard Falls!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Tioga Road on Dec 23, 2011. Formations ...
BETA PHOTO: Taken from Tioga Road on Dec 23, 2011. Formations ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspens in Lundy Canyon
Aspens in Lundy Canyon

Comments on Lee Vining Ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 17, 2013
The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker. A good photo overlay of most of the ice routes can be found here.

Please don't camp (in a tent, your vehicle, or otherwise) in or near the Poole Power Plant parking. It's not allowed and it jeopardizes access. If you really want to camp out better options exist closer to and on the other side of 395.
By Jackson Yip
From: San Jose, CA
Jan 21, 2016
There are also ice climbs on the north side of the canyon as well, though they are more alpine style climbing rather than the cragging on the southside. After an outing this past weekend, my climbing partner and I stumbled upon some old fixed gear that looked like something to rap off with. Upon further inspection, that being my yanking on a slinged off rock to check its strength, I snapped the band, my partner and I left some fixed tricams and new slings at 30m intervals. We were new to climbing in LV so we weren't sure if there were any set routes but we climbed the left flow which felt around WI 3-4 with some rock bands and steep snow. The route took about 3/4 rock pro and 2 screws to start on the flow. Watch out for undermined ice, it is plentiful. Raps lines are roughly in line with ascent line; watch for avalanche as this side of the canyon sees sun and heavy spindrift. (Ascent, Jan. 17, 2016)
-JPY

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!