Lee Vining Ice Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||37.94288, -119.22309 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||chad umbel on Jun 3, 2007|
Climber on a lower formation (yellow jacket, upper...
Lee Vining Cascade is a great ice climbing area that is located just outside of Mammoth. There are plenty of routes to climb, from single pitch to three pitch classics such as Chouinards, Spiral Staircase, The Heel Toe, and the Bard Harrington. The area recieves shade pretty much all day and starts forming usaully aroung Early November.
You can go online and type in Lee Vining ice conditions for weekly updates on how fat the ice is. The website is Sierra Mountain Guides and they post conditons for all of the classic routes. It will also tell you how to drive in from where ever you may be. There are a few nice little places in town that you can rent rooms for reasonable prices. One is called Murphys' which I usually prefer because you can get a room with three beds for about 40 to 60 bucks. Make sure you tell them your there to climb because they give ice climber discounts!
Lee Vining Cascade is located in the town of, you guessed it, Lee Vining. You can get exact directions on Mapquest.
Lee Vining ice. Feb 2008. Bard-Harrington out due to fixed leak in water main. Rumor has it the pipe might spring another leak sometime soon.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lee Vining Ice
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lee Vining Ice
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lee Vining Ice:
Featured Route For Lee Vining Ice
Barbarians Near the Gate 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Bard Harrington Wall
Cruxes on P4 and P5. The slab crux on P5 is bolted so that you can grab the draw and swing across if the move is too hard. It's at least old school slab 10b. To descend the route: rap down the belay stations till you reach the traverse ledge (3 raps). Then climb the traverse pitch in reverse. Rap the first two pitches. Each pitch has great climbing on it, but P5 is unique to the area. 1,000's of big chicken heads!!!! From the top of the climb you can contiue up 2/3 ledges to the pipe and hik...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 17, 2013
The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker. A good photo overlay of most of the ice routes can be found here.
Please don't camp (in a tent, your vehicle, or otherwise) in or near the Poole Power Plant parking. It's not allowed and it jeopardizes access. If you really want to camp out better options exist closer to and on the other side of 395.
By Jackson Yip
From: San Jose, CA
Jan 21, 2016
There are also ice climbs on the north side of the canyon as well, though they are more alpine style climbing rather than the cragging on the southside. After an outing this past weekend, my climbing partner and I stumbled upon some old fixed gear that looked like something to rap off with. Upon further inspection, that being my yanking on a slinged off rock to check its strength, I snapped the band, my partner and I left some fixed tricams and new slings at 30m intervals. We were new to climbing in LV so we weren't sure if there were any set routes but we climbed the left flow which felt around WI 3-4 with some rock bands and steep snow. The route took about 3/4 rock pro and 2 screws to start on the flow. Watch out for undermined ice, it is plentiful. Raps lines are roughly in line with ascent line; watch for avalanche as this side of the canyon sees sun and heavy spindrift. (Ascent, Jan. 17, 2016)