10+ trad line in middle area
Convenient location, easy approach, nice rock, a mix of trad and sport climbs -- what more could you want from a climbing destination? Well . . . in the case of Leda -- longer routes and more of them. But this little roadside crag is still a worthwhile destination when you have limited time or T-Wall is closed for hunting.
The history of climbing at Leda is not well documented, and little first-ascent information is recorded in any known guides. For years, the only guide to the place was some photocopied pages that referred to the routes by letters of the alphabet. The most recently published Dixie Cragger's Atlas
shows the routes by their actual names; this is mostly based on a handwritten guide by Matt Sims. Probably the most current resource (other than this site, of course) is Micah Gentry's PDF guide,
which can be found here
. This appears to get frequent updates by the author; it also includes Lower Leda,
located just down the road.
Like other crags in the Chattanooga area, Leda is a sandstone cliff. The rock quality is mostly very good, and a nice variety of routes can be found here. Many of these are sport lines, with a number of easy routes ideal for the climber making his or her first lead. Probably the most popular route at Leda is Jody's Route
, also known as Chris' Route
, an outstanding 5.10c/d either way you choose to call it.
There's also enough good trad climbing at Leda to make bringing your rack worthwhile. Nice routes to scope out include Ox Stone Crack (5.8+)
and Cracked Actor (5.10)
Leda is on privately-owned land, and a one-time liability waiver is required. A short distance along the trail is a climbers kiosk placed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition
, where you can find the form to fill out and deposit in a holding box. Editor's note on ratings:
My experience of climbing at Leda is that many, if not most, of the easy to moderate routes are harder than the grade in the DCA. In some cases, I've taken the liberty of giving these routes ratings that I think are more in line with what you'll encounter at other local crags such as T-Wall or Foster Falls; in each case, I've also listed the rating given in the book. Anyone who disagrees with this rating method is welcome to contact me, or better yet, give it your own consensus rating.
From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit, drive almost three miles to the second traffic light. Turn left here onto Montlake Mountain Road. After passing a sharp hairpin turn, go up the hill to the second of two pulloffs on the right. Park here and hike back down the road a short distance to a trail leading up to the crag. The trail is steep but nice and short.
The roadside pulloff has limited parking, so if it's full, go back down the hill and park and hike back up. Further up the hill from the pulloff is a golf course/country club type facility; do not under any circumstances park there!
Weather station 3.2 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Leda
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Leda
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Leda:
Fanfair 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Walk By Me 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Vogen Slab 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Old Foot 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Girls Only 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Oh So Sweet 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Smoke 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Lock Down 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Varmint 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Leda
Varmint 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TN
Start at a white round arete and climb up through a roof past three bolts. Head right past fixed draws to a block with a two finger pocket. Pull this and head for a glue in bolt and a nice ledge and rest. Face climb past two more bolts to the anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in TN
Warm hands on a chilly January morning. Nice fire...
BETA PHOTO: Know before you go.
May 12, 2010
Since Dr. Topo went down, I was wondering if anyone had the .pdf guidebook mentioned in the area description. I did some searching and couldn't find it elsewhere online. I've got the DCA, but it would be nice to see some updated info on lower Leda.
Jul 29, 2013
I haven't confirmed this personally, but per a post on the SCC website, parking at the main Leeda cliff (in the road pulloffs) is now reserved for emergency vehicles.
Not sure if parking lower down the road is permitted or not. Be careful heading up or down the road, people fly through there!
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 3, 2013
Yes, to confirm, all pulloffs are for "Emergency Parking Only." There is a small paved pulloff up the road directly across from the first entrance to the Montlake neighborhood, we saw a few climbers park there.
By Rockery Press
Oct 13, 2014
You can download a FREE Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-guid...
Leda Free Guide includes:
- Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
Mar 30, 2016
Nice climbing area. When taking the trail from the parking area, it is best to fallow the creek and power lines down until the trail picks up again. It appears that it continues across the creek and up. Countinuing up takes you to the top of the climbs for setting up top ropes. Careful if taking that route as it is a little sketchy up there in spots.
I found a pair of scarpa climbing shoes by the Vogen slab. Contact me if they were yours.
Also if anyone has picked up a pair of smith sun glasses around speedway boogie they might be mine. I live too far away to drive back to try and find a them..