|Upper Security Risk
This route starts in the right facing corner just right of Crash Test Blondes. Rolofson calls it PG-13, and that may be because the second clip is scary. You are clipping from a layback and have to rock onto your left foot to make the clip. You are looking at a fall onto the starting block. I suggest clipping a long sling to the draw so that you can clip the rope without pulling up much slack. Then clip the draw when you stand up.
The initial move off the block could be quite hard if you are short. Otherwise, strenuous laybacking off of good holds lead past two bolts to big holds. This is the first crux. Swing left around the corner and up to a ledge. Climb over a bulge and then up easier climbing on the white dike. The 6th bolt is a hard clip reaching far right from a crystal foothold and a sloping handhold. The bolt should have been further left in my opinion. Rolofson calls the next move up the dike 11a. It seemed hard, but not that hard. It is easier further left rather than climbing straight up above the bolt.
5.9ish climbing leads right along a diagonal crack to a vertical crack that leads to the anchors.
It's worthwhile toproping the somewhat grungy cracks that are directly above the initial corner and lead directly to the anchors. These cracks are about hard 5.9
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a long sling and biner for 2nd clip.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I found the second clip a bit awkward, but not particularly scary; maybe I was oblivious to the groundfall potential. I would have given the route two stars but for the sixth bolt, which does seem in the wrong place like Ivan says. You have to go quite a bit left of the bolt line and then traverse right using the small crystal foothold, which wasn't clear to me for a while. That was probably the most difficult move for me. The crux move through the dike wasn't terribly difficult for me because I did a huge left high step and was able to reach up to the jug. The last moves diagonally up to the anchors were fun. Since the anchors are well to the right of the bolt line it is somewhat difficult to clean.