This is the furthest east line on Riptide Wall. It starts just east of Astroprojection's bolted line. 'lectric Granny links up some rotten cracks to the chains just left and below the roof of Astroprojection. The rock is rotten, and the line is nonsensical. There are 2 or 3 fun moves but that is all. Watch the loose stuff.
2 draws for the anchors, and some small to medium gear for the cracks. Oh, and helmets.
|Comments on 'Lectric Granny
|By Lee Gitlin|
Jul 9, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
"ROCK!" I shouted at my belayer -- probably five or six times enroute to the anchors. The effort turned into a game of Asteroids (giving my age away here.) The crack system will take a variety of microcams and there are a couple of cool moves. However, there are something like 1500 routes in the guide book, and most are probably better than this one.
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
How you'd manage to pull rocks on your belayer from a slab fractured by 2 finger cracks is beyond me. The belay platform has a bit of rubble on it but knocking anything loose is easily avoided. Haters be hatin'
This climbs like a shorter more technical version of edge of the sea. Great movement, insecure finger locks, poor feet and great gear.
Small to medium nuts and cams from tiny to .4 or .5 will get you up there safe.