Leche La Vaca 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Ramier, Abe Traven, Craig Rankin |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Abe Traven on Aug 20, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: route topo
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Description P1- Climb fun chimney very far right on the wall past a small tree. Climb onto knobby slab with thin pro in corner. Bust a spicy and fun 5.8 move left and over onto another knobby slab, climb into corner and belay. P2- Climb fun corner up to flake, move left around flake (5.9) into fun corner with knobs for feet. Get to a ledge. P3- From ledge, head up to a large left leaning 5.10 layback corner. #4 camalot possibly makes this less scary. Continue to large ledge and belay. P4- Climb beautiful white rock with knobs up to a small roof with small gear under roof. Bust a 5.10 move over roof and continue up crack and knobs. Meet up with ridge and 4th class to summit
Protection Double rack and some small widgets(grey metolius, purple c3, etc.)Possibly a #4 for Pitch 3.
Rankin leading the way on Pitch 4
| start of Pitch 2
| the corner after the flake on pitch 2
| Making the move on Pitch 1
| yeah we're psyched
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