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Colchuck Balanced Rock
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Leche La Vaca 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Ramier, Abe Traven, Craig Rankin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,175
Submitted By: Abe Traven on Aug 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Rankin leading the way on Pitch 4

Description 

P1- Climb fun chimney very far right on the wall past a small tree. Climb onto knobby slab with thin pro in corner. Bust a spicy and fun 5.8 move left and over onto another knobby slab, climb into corner and belay.

P2- Climb fun corner up to flake, move left around flake (5.9) into fun corner with knobs for feet. Get to a ledge.

P3- From ledge, head up to a large left leaning 5.10 layback corner. #4 camalot possibly makes this less scary. Continue to large ledge and belay.

P4- Climb beautiful white rock with knobs up to a small roof with small gear under roof. Bust a 5.10 move over roof and continue up crack and knobs. Meet up with ridge and 4th class to summit


Protection 

Double rack and some small widgets(grey metolius, purple c3, etc.)Possibly a #4 for Pitch 3.



Photos of Leche La Vaca Slideshow Add Photo
route topo
BETA PHOTO: route topo
yeah we're psyched
yeah we're psyched
start of Pitch 2
start of Pitch 2
Making the move on Pitch 1
Making the move on Pitch 1
the corner after the flake on pitch 2
the corner after the flake on pitch 2
Unknown climber on pitch 4. Classic pitch that is engaging and keeps you on your toes. Nice work guys!!
Unknown climber on pitch 4. Classic pitch that is ...
Comments on Leche La Vaca Add Comment
Show which comments
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
May 21, 2013

Stellar climbing the whole way, chicken-heads right where you want them. I'd bring a wire brush to take care of pesky lichen on some crux holds. I got the worst rope drag I've ever had on the 5.9, gotta get doubles next time!

By michal
From: Everett WA
Aug 26, 2013

P4 was awesome really fun face climbing. Put up in good style nice to have another moderate in the area