Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Morrell's Wall
Select Route:
Beat Feet T 
Epacondilitis T 
Jeff T 
Leave It To Beaver T 
Mutt T 
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 
Space Cadets T 
Tumbling Dice S 

Leave It To Beaver 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jan 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
chimney pitch

Access: MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.
Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.
Rap with one 60m rope.

Location 

Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.

Protection 

None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.


Photos of Leave It To Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
overhung lieback pitch
overhung lieback pitch
Get in the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Get in the chimney.

Comments on Leave It To Beaver Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school!