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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Up in Smoke 

Leave It to Beaver 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Ben Fuller
Page Views: 4,128
Submitted By: Lanky on Apr 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Kyle warming up.


Start sitting on the right side of the boulder with a hanging, blocky arete to your left. Heel hooks and tension get you to a pinch and a sharp crimp. From here, make a big move and lots more tension lead to a slopey but solid topout.


In Devil's Den, head past the Up In Smoke Boulder and follow the trail towards the swampy pond. It will head down and right. At the bottom of that dip, take a left. The problem is on the water-facing side of a boulder right by the pond's edge.


A couple of pads will help cover the rock in the middle of the landing. A spotter to keep you from tipping backwards into the swamp isn't a bad idea.

Photos of Leave It to Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the reachy section
Approaching the reachy section
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean whips out his melon
Sean whips out his melon
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily Hallet (2011)
Lily Hallet (2011)
Rock Climbing Photo: the beav
the beav
Rock Climbing Photo: Old man Pete getting it done.
Old man Pete getting it done.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dustin pulling through the bottom section.
Dustin pulling through the bottom section.

Comments on Leave It to Beaver Add Comment
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By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Apr 9, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

IMO this is probably the best V7 in the park.

I think we had 8 pads up there one day, but two pads will work fine if someone moves them as you go. I can't picture falling into the pond, but knocking your spotter into the water is a possibility.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Sep 7, 2011

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 8, 2013
rating: V8 7B

This thing is very sustained and almost a bit more power endurance based. There's no shutdown move per se, but every move is relatively challenging and requires lots of tension. Enough so to the point that when you reach the finishing 'jugs', they don't feel quite as good as you think they should. This problem definitely isn't over until you're standing on top!

Outstanding climb. Definitely one of the best in the park.
By yann gauthier
Aug 17, 2014

By Graham O.
Jul 10, 2016

Amazing climb!

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