|Devil's Den Bouldering
Leave It to Beaver
|Type: ||Boulder, 15'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]|
|FA: ||Ben Fuller|
|Page Views: ||2,202|
|Submitted By: ||Lanky on Apr 9, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Start sitting on the right side of the boulder with a hanging, blocky arete to your left. Heel hooks and tension get you to a pinch and a sharp crimp. From here, make a big move and lots more tension lead to a slopey but solid topout.
In Devil's Den, head past the Up In Smoke Boulder and follow the trail towards the swampy pond. It will head down and right. At the bottom of that dip, take a left. The problem is on the water-facing side of a boulder right by the pond's edge.
A couple of pads will help cover the rock in the middle of the landing. A spotter to keep you from tipping backwards into the swamp isn't a bad idea.
Lily Hallet (2011)
Dustin pulling through the bottom section.
Old man Pete getting it done.
Sean whips out his melon
|Comments on Leave It to Beaver
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 9, 2010
rating: V7 7A+
IMO this is probably the best V7 in the park.
I think we had 8 pads up there one day, but two pads will work fine if someone moves them as you go. I can't picture falling into the pond, but knocking your spotter into the water is a possibility.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 8, 2013
rating: V8 7B
This thing is very sustained and almost a bit more power endurance based. There's no shutdown move per se, but every move is relatively challenging and requires lots of tension. Enough so to the point that when you reach the finishing 'jugs', they don't feel quite as good as you think they should. This problem definitely isn't over until you're standing on top!
Outstanding climb. Definitely one of the best in the park.