Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) 5.12a
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Good page? (2 likes)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Dave Evans & Jim Angione, 1/78 FFA: (TR) John Bachar 3/78, FL: J. Bachar 1979 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Leave it to Beaver
-Aaron Reed
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Description This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of Clean and Jerk (5.10c) just right of a large pine tree.
Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.
Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.
- Some good footage of John Bachar soloing the route back in the 1980's -
Protection A good selection of wires and cams to 3" will see you through to the top. Pro is good, but strenuous to place (especially onsight).
Leave it to Beaver
Photo by Eric Draper
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Browning at the last move of the "crux". photo: R....
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Jack getting ready to CRANK photo: R.Miramontes
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Sometimes Men Make the Strangest Requests...
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The cast of Leave It To Beaver
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Early '80s Beaver.
photo by Mimi DeGravelle
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Climber seconding on Leave It To Beaver (5.12a)
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I managed (barely) to lead this classic route on m...
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Konstantin Stoletov on "Leave it to beaver"
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Josh does not look pumped after passing the crux ....
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Leah Sandvoss sending "Leave it to Beaver", 5.12a,...
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Leave it to Beaver, .12a. Joshua Tree, CA.
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| Comments on Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) |
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By Randy
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.12a
| Robert, nice photos of the Beav...
One of the best routes in the Park. 5 of 5 stars. |
By Gary Kleiger
Oct 29, 2004
| I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case! |
By Randy
Oct 29, 2004
rating: 5.12a
| Chipped footholds is BS. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a
| Was Bachar's solo ascent the FL indicated in the route's description? |
By Randy
Mar 14, 2006
rating: 5.12a
| No. Bachar TR'd it free first. Lead it later and still later free soloed it. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 23, 2008
| just awesome. pumpy.
if TR'ing, webbing's nice. we used extended the anchor with an extended cordellete and one 24" runner. takes #1,#2,#3 BD cams perfectly. |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Nov 1, 2012
| Left a nut below the crux sequence. Now there are two fixed nuts - one below the crux sequence, and one above the crux sequence. Unless someone was able to clean it... I spent quite a bit of time trying to no avail. |
By Jonathan Guy
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 28, 2013
| No fixed nuts as of January '13. Incredible route. I was impressed by how much tape gloves helped me on this one. Then again, I do use the double-karate-chop-hand-jam beta... |
By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
May 22, 2013
| Great video! Better in some ways than a lot of the new stuff coming out. ;) |
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