2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one.
The crack is fun and has some great fingerlocks, but is over too quickly. I don't know where you got a hand jam on this route, Jeff! The upper part felt contrived and you can make it easier by not following the bolt line.
I thought this route was harder than 5.9, perhaps because I am more comfortable with footwork than hands. While the finger locks in the crack are great, the move that gets you to the first bolt is quite tough, as there are no decent footholds and the crack peters out a bit. Maybe I was just off when I was there, but I did it on TR after leading it (with some aid), and still though it was a good deal tougher than other Boulder Canyon 5.9's.
Definitely a worthwhile climb. It's ridiculously easy to place good pro below the bolts.
I thought this was a good example of a 5.9+ . The day we did it I watched two people lead it (including me) and four follow. Everyone fell off! At least once. All the same folks routinely climbed the 10a and 10bs right next to this without a fall. The deal is that the crack sucks you up with great pro (TCUs and stoppers) and then just when you go for what should be a locker hand jam the crack becomes off hand size. Once you figure this out and jam your foot in the crack instead of trying to use the face holds you can yard up and get a thumb forefinger lock in just the right place. Then its 5.9+ until you find that its solid 10 trying to go straight up on off hands and feet that are too high.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Mar 17, 2007 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Protects very well with a green and/or yellow Alien.
Great crack to practice on. We climbed the next climb over to the right then left TR on this climb. I enjoyed this climb a lot but gave it a 1 star b/c the crack is not long enough and the top is too easy for the 10a grade.
Got a nut stuck on the top of the crack while I was climbing there on Sun. If you can get it out, you're welcome to it. I tried for about 10 minutes, but it was starting to rain and booming thunder, so I left it. It's wedged in there pretty good.
Great short climb. I agree if that finger crack were longer I would be great. I wonder how many times I have said that, lol. Buy great finger locks lead to easy face climbing. Gear beta: a red c3 and a #0.4 Camalot is fully enough gear for a guy like me that gets scared on Eldo 5.8.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Feb 26, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Sweet finger crack and great ring lock to get the crux! Fun staying on the bolt line, working the vertical dike. Despite the length, still worth 3 stars, imo.
A challenging route for me - finishing the crack in particular. Protected it with a 0.75 and 0.3 Camalot (if you're going to use a single piece, something between that would probably be best to take). The polished foothold someone else mentioned is probably the one thing that makes finishing the crack difficult. My partner stepped on it, but I couldn't for the life of me. Took me many tries to find something to hold onto above the crack - taller people will have an easier time reaching (I'm 5'9").
Plenty of space to dump your gear below the crag and a plethora of places to lay out your rope tarp and stand for belay. Luxurious in this sense. The area is partially shaded, not nearly as exposed as the Upper.
I think this route will be on my future re-do list for a rp.
By Eric Klammer From: Boulder, CO Aug 6, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Gah, why could't the crack be 50' longer?! Overall a fun route with a great variety of climbing styles packed into a short distance. Super safe lead as well, throw a few cams in the crack and go for it!