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Learning to Crawl 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1994
Fixed Hardware: 11 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,344
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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Classical beauty, Noi Kosila, well into the slab.

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  • Description 

    This is the better of the two 10s on this wall. Interesting climbing leads to an exciting roof move. Not to worry, big holds keep the grade mellow.

    Protection 

    11 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. Second clip may be tough for shorter people. Third bolted line on main slab right of the prominant dihedral crack. 85 foot pitch.


    Photos of Learning to Crawl Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Approaching the ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noi approaching the roof.
    Noi approaching the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noi setting up to jug haul through the roof.
    Noi setting up to jug haul through the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Bill nearing the top, 3-18-07.
    Dr. Bill nearing the top, 3-18-07.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noi slipping through with ease.
    Noi slipping through with ease.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the ceiling.
    Pulling the ceiling.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noi on the final slab.
    Noi on the final slab.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Noi Kosila getting started on the opening moves.
    Noi Kosila getting started on the opening moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This route is considerably easier than the immedia...
    This route is considerably easier than the immedia...

    Comments on Learning to Crawl Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2014
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 15, 2001

    Ouch!!! I'm not sure if I should cringe from stupidity or blush with embarrasment. Ordinarily when putting up a line I make it a cardinal policy to remain on my jumars until I am completely off the pitch. On Learning to Crawl (Alan's name by right of rescue), I had finished placing all of the bolts but the first. For some reason, I was working out the first clip bouldering around the base. I had tested the rock for integrity and resistance to a downward pull, and in bouldering the move pulled a large block horizontally. Needless to say, as the block pulled, I pitched over backwards and jammed my foot between a small rock and the wall. This set up a rotating spin around the ankle, which sprained badly immediately. It swelled instantly to basketball size. I got my shirt off and tied it up as well as possible, abandoned the gear, and began the hobble back down. By the time I reached the base, I had fully sprained the other ankle. Thinking both were broken, I drove into the emergency room whereupon both ankles were X-rayed and casted. Having left all of my gear on the hill, I called Alan...who responded by humping around the hill in the dark, rapping down to the line, collecting all of my gear, and humping both loads back to the car. Not, however, before Anna (ABS) who had trucked me from the emergency room to the crag an hour so after Alan's departure, managed to give us both a scare by hiking up to the crag. This was before the trail was put in, and Alan I both figured her to pitch off the 3rd class ledge into the river, which she did not. Any lesson here? Nothing intelligent on my part, however, when things go wrong it is surprising how wrong they can go and how quickly. We may be climbing close to home, but we are still in the mountains and they still demand respect. I did not think I was being careless, but I was tired, and I paid little attention to the base and the potential consequences of a fall. It is amusing now because the consequences were not great, but all too often the outcome of our carelessness is far more serious.
    By Bryson Slothower
    Mar 2, 2002

    I thought this was a great sport route worthy of two stars, thanks for putting it up Richard....
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Mar 2, 2002

    Bryson - yeah,the pitch turned out okay. Now you can even jump off before the first bolt and not bust up your ankles!!
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 2, 2003

    Better than a single star route IMHO. Fun.
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Nov 10, 2007
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I like this line a lot.
    By Rob Westfall
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 18, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Must be the legacy of Richard's adventure, but I found the climbing on the first two clips made me think the hardest (not saying much). Loved the roof feature. Fun route.
    By Scott Thurnauer
    Dec 19, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This was the first route we did on the wall today. It was a great warmup, well laid out, intuitive, fun, and scenic. A nice preview of other stuff in the area. Now that I read Richard's story of setting it, it's even better.
    By John Tex
    From: Estes
    Jul 11, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Felt this was a 10a and NQB was 10c, although slab is not my style, and I felt the slab was much more difficult on NQB, hence the rating. Really fun route, but watch out for loose holds in the roof. I think all the flakes look a little sketchy, and a few are definitely loose and need to be knocked down. I was matched on one that had to weigh at minimum 25 pounds and was the best option in the roof before I noticed the faint X on it. I promptly moved around to the right. Be careful on this, and look carefully in the roof. Loose rock should be avoidable, and it shouldn't deter you from this route.
    By B. Smith
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 5, 2014

    I may have been off route, but this felt harder than 10a to me. I would have called it 10c, but I am not expert on rating. Any way, it was a lot of fun and a good challenge!
    By Parker Wrozek
    Oct 11, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    It is great great route and really worth the hike up the hill. I would say it is a 10a with 3 stars of climbing. Easier than NQB but still pretty tough and fun.

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