Learn me something about walls in Zion!

Headed to Zion for a mid-week trip next month and looking to try out a new portaledge on a moderate wall. I know most of the routes in that range can much more easily be done in a day or fixed-and-fired, but bringing and testing out the ledge is part of the point of the trip. So, what are some good routes that would allow for some hauling and ledging without clogging up a stepping stone trade route like Space Shot? I'd also strongly prefer to stay off Moonlight since it goes free at a mortal grade, but I'm game for whatever else.

This isn't my first wall, just the first sleeping on a ledge. Probably not looking to go any harder than, say, desert shield. What say you, desert sages?

1) Cosmic trauma - leaning wall. Good if the temps are cooler.
2) Ancient Gallery- right twin. Good if it's hot temps mostly in the shade all day.
3) G-Money-Angels Landing. Shorter approach than Ancient Gallery but shady route as well.
4) Lunar x -next to moonlight.
5) Fang- East Temple. A bit short for an over nighter. But good route..
6) Lowe route on the Landing. Less sun than G-money.
7) blah blah etc.etc. don't wanna give you to many ideas then is hard to decide what to do.. go getm.
What kind of ledge you get?

Thanks for the info! I'm looking the hardest at cosmic trauma and lunar x, though ancient gallery looks excellent. I'm lacking a pin rack, any idea if that goes clean at a reasonable graded?

Additionally, in case anyone else is reading this thread, my understanding is that the routes on Angel's Landing (among other walls) are currenly seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Full info here:

nps.gov/zion/learn/news/cli…

As for the ledge, I would up with a BD ledge. Originally set out for something lighter but ultimately had to snap up a good deal.

Sounds like you're relatively fresh to wall climbing?

The standard trade routes would be the place to start. If falcon closures are lifted Prodigal Son has amazing position and easy hauling. If not lifted Lunar X or Touchstone are great climbs with relatively easy hauling as well. Desert Shield is a good climbing, if a bit beat out, but kind of pointless to bring a ledge up there with the Jungle Bivi just below the head wall pitches (and the hauling would suck).

Leaning Wall would suck for hauling particularly bad on Cosmic Trauma. Also the hanging anchors are all old rusty Leepers (sketchy!). AG is great but requires a good selection of pins. Fang has amazing position but is short and pretty sketchy up high.

G-Money is probably scary and hard for the grade.

Ya we bailed off cosmic trauma because I didn't want to haul off a free hanging belay made of leeper hangers. Call me chicken shit but that was my judgement call. Ran up space shot instead.

Cheers for the input, super helpful.

I've got some wall experience though admittedly not nearly as much as free climbing. However, aid climbing and big routes are not new to me. Because the part of the point of this trip is to spend a night on a portaledge (rather than on a natural ledge or fixing then rapping to the base), even if it's a bit contrived (I would never bring a ledge on any of these routes normally) I think it's important to acknowledge that I'll be slower than normal and not get in the way of other climbers on fast-moving classics.

This last consideration led me to rule out Touchstone since not only is it mostly free (and therefore would normally go fairly quickly) but there's absolutely no reason to spend two full days on a route like that. I would probably have an aneurysm if I was going to give it a whirl and found people entrenched on the middle of the route hauling a ledge, of all things. I know first come first serve and the routes belong to everyone and all that, but I hate being that guy.

Sounds like Lunar X might be the best bet all things considered. I remember thinking how beautiful the headwall looked...

I think Lunar X fits all the criteria that you're looking for. It's an excellent line for sure! If you want some portaledge experience, setting one up on those fully hanging belays in the middle of the route is a trip.

All clean, but exposed and thoughtful C2 climbing... great position and an easy walk off descent, which is always a plus.

This was a trip report that I wrote a few years back... one of my favorite routes in Zion.

supertopo.com/tr/A-December…

Don. I hear Ancient G- goes clean but I've only got to pitch 6 then had to bail.(Fun/epic) I lightly tapped a couple md beaks in but all else below go clean c2+ish. Biggest fall would be on the manufactured pitch (3?) If you blow a hook. And watch out for snakes on the approach. (Wow)!! Yes cosmic would suck to haul on and yes those hangers are sweet. Bring a couple bolts if you got the time to help upgrade. Definetly the last aid pitch which I thought was the crux.. hooks to delicate placements off the belay. Little sketchy!! But funner adventure than Lunar X. Here is another bone. Swoop gimp to Idyodissey. Super fun. Imo.

Nice T.R Vic. Love the summit photo. You got the bliss look on your face And the old Toyota commercial jump going.. well done