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Leapin' Lizards 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Keefe and Ryan Bello, 1990
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: John Knight on Apr 1, 2004
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Leapin' Lizards is either a start variation to Spring Route or a separate route. Option #1 - Clip the lower bolts, then head left onto Spring Route to clip the stray, off route bolt way to the left (use a looong sling) then go either straight up (bold!) or work your way right of the arete to the anchors under the roof. Option #2 - Go up the thin seam (use a small wired), clip the lower Lizard bolts, then go straight up to the new finish right of Spring. Use small gear & more draws to head up over the roof to the right. Once over the roof, work your way right to the anchors 25' above on the right. There are several good climbs that can be top roped from these upper anchors.

Grade Comments: The book gives Leapin' Lizards (Option #1) a 5.8 rating. I disagree. I think it's pretty solid 5.9. Maybe if you wire the moves, it eventually feels 5.8, but I doubt it. Please climb it and confirm for me! Option #2 is 5.9 or possibly 5.10a. The roof move feels hard, but is well protected.

To find the climb, ascend the fourth class notch to Spring Route (small amount of water dripping out of crack in the rock), then look for the bolts just right of the spring. The first set of bolts is Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and the 2nd is Lizards. A couple other climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range can be found uphill and to the right that are worth checking out.


Bring draws, small gear, and slings for the anchor chains.

[ed. note: 4/04 - two buttonhead bolts replaced in same holes w/12mm SS Fixe ASCA bolts.

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