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 ADVANCED
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazier Food T 
Chili Dog T 
Double Delight T 
Faith Healer T 
Five Tree T 
Foot Massage, The T 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 
Gomez T 
Leap Erickson T 
Leap of Faith T 
Leap Year Flake T 
Look Before You Leap T 
Lurch T 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 
Norm S 
Pat Adams Dihedral T 
Snake Oil T 
Tofutti T 
Toxic Waltz T 

Leap Year Flake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, February 1988
Page Views: 2,760
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Leap Year Flake

Description 

This fun and somewhat unique climb is located on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall more or less directly below the prominent, overhanging corner of Pat Adams Dihedral.

Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.

Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

pro to 2", including wires


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Leap Year Flake
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Leap Year Flake
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Leap Year Flake
Leap Year Flake

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2013
By Dynomight510
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The pro overall is great however there is one section a bit before you reach the flake that is thin. I used a #3 Camp Ball nutz because a tri cam would not fit. The grade is not beyond 5.7 though.

Shot and sweet. Good moves. Good rock.

Not sustained.
By tony grice
May 2, 2006

WOW!!! as fun as 5.7 gets. bring plenty in the .5 size , and a few small wires, if 5.7 is your max. Well protected
By seamstress
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The comment "somewhat unique climb" almost scared me off, but it was a sweet little climb. It felt more like a Tuolumne or Tahoe route than JT - smearing & stemming; crack technique not really needed. The flake sounds a bit hollow so check carefully before you place your gear.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 5, 2008

An alternate (and harder) start to this route is to climb Leap Erickson to it's 4th bolt and then cut right on the sloping ledge to reach the base of the flake system. Extending the 1st placement or two will cut down on any rope drag you might otherwise encounter.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agree with Tony Grice on pro. A really great finish up the flake, something to savor. I'd say it's one of the must do 5.7's in The Park.
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 16, 2011

Finish with Double Delight or Tofutti for a great two pitch route. Double Delight ends with a bolted rappel anchor.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this is one of my all time favorite 5.7's. It is simply amazingly fun! Definite must do while in the area.
By JSharpe
Nov 18, 2012

didn't care for the 1st half, but the flake was super cool. rap from chains about 20 ft to your right past the tree.
By Brian Allen
From: Palm Desert
Apr 4, 2013

The thin section protected well with a 0 mastercam or similar. Much thinner than it looked from the bottom. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 C4.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 21, 2013

Just did it.... Good stuff! Med cams to belay right under the Pat Adams Dihedral. Scramble down to rap anchors to climbers right on a slab just past a tree/bush.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 21, 2013

^^^^ actually the anchor at the base of PAD takes 3.5" down to .5" - it's a gem! And agree with Tony, head up with plenty of 1/2" cams or you'll be stuck with either nuts in the flake or running it out. :)