Leap of Faith
||Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
|Original: ||WI3 [details]|
|FA: ||Feb. 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Dec - Feb|
|Page Views: ||298|
|Submitted By: ||Jay Harrison on Feb 18, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the route. Note that t...
The crux is either working up the 40' thin slab w/o pro or the steep face above this. In good years, the ice on the slab takes screws (it would have before the Jan. thaw this season), but in lean years, no gear will go until the headwall is reached. One may be able to reach right and place a cam in the rock, but the ice gets really skinny in that direction.
I had only enough rope to reach a ledge on the left 100'+ up. In order to gain a rappel tree, I had to leap left from a small ledge blocked by a rock rib, hence the route's name. It is an easy leap with a stiff penalty for failure. I suspect in good years there's plenty of ice to use for that traverse.
There is potential to lead another 40' or so higher if the ice is in well.
Note that a 70m rope barely reaches the base from the very lowest tree, with stretch. You may need to use double ropes, or rap to a birch tree on the left and rap again, in order to reach safety.
The route is visible near the far end of the Giant Boulder Pile north of the Waterfall Wall about 25 minutes' walk. This is north of the Northern Cascade another 15 minutes.
Walk past the entire boulder pile to access a left-slanting ramp with a steep wall on its right (several short, steep ice flows) and work up left along it until the righthand wall dies out, then traverse right to the base of the climb.
Look for a 40' low-angle ice slab border by a large, overhanging, left-facing corner on the right.
Screws, from 10 to 20cm, and runners for occasional 'cicle slingin'.
No anchors at top.
BETA PHOTO: From farther down the ravine. The short vertical w...