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Super Mario Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
European Vacation S 
Guide Route Left T,TR 
Guide Route Right T,TR 
Leap of Faith S 
Pinkney Route S 
Rival TR 
Rock, The TR 
Sixteenth Rung S 
Super Mario S 
Tubin' Dudes S 
Unnamed S 
White Powerdrette T 
Zelda S 

Leap of Faith 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Matt Behrens
Page Views: 589
Submitted By: Andrew Palmer on Jul 29, 2008

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The middle of the crux.

Photo: Elissa Colley

Description 

Originally, the start was done with a full-out, all-points-off, "Leap of Faith" across the chasm from the Super Mario Boulder to the adjacent wall.

Future ascentionists, perhaps wary of the leap or perhaps just finding it completely unnecessary, found a "Lean of Faith" to work just fine.

Stem across from the top of the Super Mario Boulder to the adjacent wall. After navigating some tricky moves on the face, the crux comes at the beginning of the roof - grab some tiny edges and stick a long lunge to a good edge, eventually gaining a jug rest and technical face above.

Location 

Climb around the Super Mario Boulder to the back left corner, right next to Tubin' Dudes.

Protection 

Approximately 8 bolts to the chains.


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By ----
Jun 29, 2012

The four move boulder problem at the third bolt is in the V7 range, but may feel harder until you get the body positions figured out. A small frame can actually be advantageous for this crux, but a shallow knee bar can be utilized by tall climbers to reduce the difficulty of the third move of the sequence. Cool air pours out of the corridor to the right of the route making it a decent route choice on hot summer days.