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Crux move for some of us, is where the top of the crack ends and you have to move out and do a few of the face moves on Dr. Coolhead. If you excel at face moves, then the more likely crux comes back where the crack banks left and flares on smearing feet. Be careful not get gear into your holds until you have passed them.
Just right of Dr. Coolhead. The zig zag crack.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2007
Always felt like the crux was the wide part of the leftward leaning crack.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Apr 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid fun zig zagging crack. Good pro.
Jan 17, 2016
The cracks between Dr. Coolhead and Scrotum Roof can be mixed up and climbed in many ways. Fun to do them all.