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Leaning Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blinded by the Light S 
Craggy Crack T,TR 
Lichen Attack Crack T 
Mainliner S 
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 
Second Thought S 
Tiny Propeller S 
Unknown S 
Will of the Wasp S 

Leaning Tower  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 35.82208, -106.54078 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,755
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 18, 2008
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Delicate movement into the crux on Tiny Propeller....

Description 

A huge leaning chunk of rock about a mile back in the canyon. A big crack splits the overhanging south face of this tower.

Getting There 

Simply follow the trail from the Las Conchas parking area for about 20 minutes downstream. After the 4th wooden bridge, you'll come to The Sponge on the north (right) side of the creek. Keep hiking for a few more minutes and the Leaning Tower will be the brilliant and obvious wall on your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Leaning Tower:
Lichen Attack Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tiny Propeller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Second Thought   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner)   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Leaning Tower

Featured Route For Leaning Tower
Ultra low resolution photo of Carlo Torres on Main...

Mainliner 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Leaning Tower
A beautiful line left of the main crack that splits the tower (Mean Leaner). Technical climb with face and a bit of crack climbing, mostly at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Leaning Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Tower itself with the two proud lines, there i...
BETA PHOTO: The Tower itself with the two proud lines, there i...
The routes on the left
BETA PHOTO: The routes on the left
Leaning Tower, Las Conchas
Leaning Tower, Las Conchas

Comments on Leaning Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 18, 2011
These routes might be the product of Wpenner? I recall being told about a few routes down that way by him or Arron Chavez, the white mexican, and yes I believe they were all supposed to be 5.11 and 5.12
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Sep 19, 2011
Lee is correct, those are four routes I bolted a few years ago.

The left three are somewhere between 5.11c and 5.12a. The right one is a bit harder. As George noted, two of these climbs are at least 90 ft tall making them the longest routes at Las Conchas other than Mainliner and Mean Leaner on the Leaning Tower. They were bolted for stick-clipping and the cruxes are quite hard and difficult to figure out.

I have never heard a name for the formation these are located on. Given how long it took for routes to go up on this chunk of rock, Hidden Tower seems more appropriate. Tupelo Chain Sex is way left of these routes, just uphill and around the corner from the Leaning Tower. It is so named because it uses chain for hangers (classic ghetto bolting technique from the early 90s). It also looks like a complete turd-pile with few redeeming features.

What lines did you do George?

W
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 19, 2011
So when are you going to post up the route beta, W?