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Leaning Pillar T,S 
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Whole Lot of Drunk S 

Leaning Pillar 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Nearing the top of the "Leaning Pillar".

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Leaning Pillar has always seemed a bit goofy to me. Protected first by one bolt, then by two, the climbing has always seemed as though something was missing in the conceptualization. The route starts left of the Dissolution/Resolution face climbs by first starting up the corner. Traverse out left for a clip after 15 feet and head up on good edges to a crack system and a clip just before the cracks. The rational climber may elect to fire in a #3 Camalot above the second clip, or just grab the good jams and suck in a small amount of air. The anchor is over a ledge and out of sight. This is not a great route, but the stone is solid.

Protection 

Bring a couple of draws, a mid-size camming device, and a rope. There is a double bolt anchor at the top. As of 2007, it has been updated to be 6 bolts.


Photos of Leaning Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
A solo of Leaning Pillar, 5.10c.
A solo of Leaning Pillar, 5.10c.
Roth on route.
Roth on route.

Comments on Leaning Pillar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 10, 2004

This is a fun mixed route. It could probably be lead without any of the 2 bolts, with RPs, nuts, and small cams. There are 2 open [shuts] at the top.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 21, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I got rid of my old open hooks and replaced them with 1/2" bolts and winch hooks, down a bit for better hooks orientation. The original bolt snapped off pretty easy but are plenty of bolts now. Could be the best protected 5.10 at Table. After adding one bolt and an anchor 15 years ago I expected this route to catch on but it never did. Not usually good to change other's routes, but this always seemed an orphan needing some care.

As a pure gear lead, you'll need small wires, Aliens, and remember to "stick your chest out, keep your head up...and handy" (Tupac). "R" with no bolt clipped.

I'm almost positive this was a Berk brothers' route. The original bolt was the same style found on Flight 66, it's one of the least contrived tens at Table, and only the Berks were putting up routes this hard in the eighties.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 17, 2010

All bolts now, well protected and very fun, one of my favorite routes on North Table.
By goingUp
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Incredibly well-protected now, all bolts, solid 10, and the necessary crux holds still hold their edges... unlike a lot of other N. Table routes.