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Leanie Meanie 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Donini, Rab Carrington & Mark Chapman, 1972
Page Views: 2,130
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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  • Description 

    I've never done the 2nd pitch...But the 1st is brilliant!

    Solo up the bushy, easy pedestal and continue or belay (yellow/extra red Alien sizes)...

    (at the start) It may look short but it's hard and it does get bigger... Crux red Alien-size jams and layaway/stems come right off the ledge. After punching it to a stem-stance the crack keeps growing in width. At midway, you get some fun and steep hand jams around blocks to a weird wide section in a corner. A couple grunt moves later and you'll be rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

    Rap off to the ground is about 125'...Or check out the upper part if you're curious.


    Location 

    Hidden in a big right (east) facing corner


    Protection 

    Doubles from red Alien size to C4 #4 Camalot (red Alien is the money size)



    Comments on Leanie Meanie Add Comment
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    By Scotty Nelson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 1, 2007

    The OW section is longer than it looks from below. Recommend #3.5 and #4 for this part.

    By Bryan G
    From: San Jose
    Jan 30, 2011

    The crux is having the strength and confidence to hang off your finger stacks long enough to get some gear in. Ended up aiding it on lead, but it didn't feel too bad on TR. I love the upper section. It's funny how the steepest part of the route is also the easiest. And the OW at the end gives it that "full value" feeling that you get with most Arch Rock climbs.

    By Christina Freschl
    From: Berkeley, California
    Mar 2, 2012

    Not really a layback for me. I tried a couple of times off the ledge to get a layback, but the edge was too rounded and the angle was weird (also I am not a strong laybacker). Once I went to almost straight in thin hands/finger jams and stemming off the right mini feet, I was able to climb the route. Steep hands section is soooo fun. Off-width section is good and you can walk a #3 for a ways.

    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Dec 12, 2012

    I wouldn't bring a 3.5 and a 4, just the 4 is fine. I have also done it with a 5 which is better but a 4 works. And no you can not walk a #3 in the OW. But you can after the OW in the big hands to fist section.

    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Jan 28, 2014

    ...rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

    Anchor looked to be new and bomber, maybe upgraded? In any case, no longer funky.

    Hard pulls through the crux on this one.