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Middle Spire
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Leaner and Meaner 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

Fingerlocks and some awkward jamming are the name of the game. Would be one of Tahoe's best splitter cracks of its grade if it weren't so contrived. You can use the wall to the right most of the way for your feet making the route much easier. Staying off this wall makes it classic and hard. You get forced off the (stem) wall by the time you hit the crux but it makes it a whole lot easier. Endurance is the real crux had the right wall not been there. I don't know, seems a bit contrived. Still a really good "laser cut" splitter that is a challenge no matter how you choose to climb it.

Location 

Just to the left of Lean and Mean on Middle Spire. You'll know it because its the only splitter that goes up a dead vertical to overhanging wall at a slight (right) leaning angle.

Protection 

Cams .5"-2" Nuts


Photos of Leaner and Meaner Slideshow Add Photo
Member of the FA party sendin in 2012.
Member of the FA party sendin in 2012.

Comments on Leaner and Meaner Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 10, 2007

This is a good TR after you do Lean and Mean or any number of routes that go by LaM anchors...
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 23, 2008

According to a Tahoe local this route was done in the early 80's and was called Deep Freeze.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 10, 2010

The name Deep Freeze came about because the FA was done in February. (brrr!)
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011

Cool but contrived.