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BETA PHOTO: Lean Lady is on the rightmost portion of the Angel...
On the far right edge of the Angel Food Wall is a white slabby area. This route goes up a crack and chimney system on the far left of these slabs. Start in a dark chimney and move up and left past a dark overhang. The upper chimney/crack system continues for a few pitches. When it peters out, step left and make a few face moves to easy ground.
Descent: Scramble up and left to the top of the Angel Food Wall, then down the usual gully.
Approach via the standard Angel Food Wall trail then scramble right to far right portion of the wall.
The beginning chimney of Lean Lady.
A small overhang about halfway up Lean Lady.
Lean Lady: where the route got its name. A couple...
Nov 24, 2006
Thanks Larry for the description and photos. Seems we were on route. The "Lean Lady" squeeze chimney in your photo is unmistakable. We ended up backing off it and going to the outside on the right without a problem.
The chimney was an incredibly tight squeeze. I was concerned if my partner who was on lead actually pushed through it might be a dead end. If so, it would have been damn difficult to get back down through it. It certainly must have been a very "Lean Lady" that did the FA on it.
I found the description for the 2nd pitch in the Brock guide confusing since it didn't mention any chimney at all and we found that virtually the entire pitch involved stemming up a 3 to 4 foot chimney.
My partner and I both thought it was a pretty good route with a good variety of climbing and some interesting moves. It was my first climb at Red Rock and felt it was a nice introduction to the area.
|By Ron Graham|
Nov 8, 2009
This climb can easily be done in 3 pitches with a 70 meter rope. Rather than end the second pitch in the alcove where the Lean Lady squeeze is located, climb the crack outside of the alcove (a few tricky moves, but the holds are there) to the big ledge above it. A 70 meter rope will then get you to the easy scrambling area at the top of the pitch.
If you're over 180 lbs, forget trying to do the squeeze. My partner is a fit 190 lbs, and I'm a fit 215, and neither of us could make it through the squeeze, even dragging our racks and small climbing packs behind us. The climb up the crack outside the alcove is probably more fun anyway, because it offers some awkward moves with airy exposure.
If you really want to have fun with this climb, continue scrambling and climbing easy 4th or 5th class areas straight up to the top of White Rock Peak. After signing the register, take the walk-off to the north (follow the cairns), but come back down the first major gully you find. The base of the route is 150 yards or less from the base of this gully. This loop offers much more fun than the normal route walk-off!
Make sure you bring a couple of #4 and #5 Camalots on this route if you want to protect it well. My partner and I had only one #4 and no #5 and ended up having to run things out quite a bit. There are a number of sections in the second and third pitches that will only take big gear. The climbing is relatively easy, so no sweat, but just to be safe...
From: las vegas, NV
Nov 19, 2009
Re: Approach to Lean Lady..........aka Death by Scruboak. I was beginning to wish I had packed my chainsaw.
From: las vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2010
We selected this route based on information found in Handren's guide, which described 4 pitches of mostly 5.5, with a 5.6 crux (the Lean Lady chimney.) We did it in 3 (sort of) with a 60m rope. It felt significantly more difficult than 5.5, more like 5.7 R.
To begin, we scrambled up the ramp on the left (south) side,and began our first pitch at the leaning scruboak on a ledge inside the chimney(per guidebook description,) quite a way off the ground.
We went right, instead of left of the roof on the first pitch, through a squeeze chimney. I had to drag my pack and move my gear to the sides of my harness to get through this spot. We belayed in an alcove further up.
On P2 I tried going up the low angled outside to the left of the chimney, but went back inside, due to lack of pro. This put us through a second tight squeeze with more gear rearranging and pack dragging (not to mention grunting and other unlady-like noises.)
The ledge above was a welcome and comfortable belay, situated right under the tight chimney in Larry's photo. Not favoring the awkward moves with airy exposure that Ron mentioned, we chose the chimney. I had to remove all my gear and untie to squeeze through with difficulty. Just past the squeeze I hauled up our gear and packs, my partner tied in short, and I belayed her up into the chimney. She scrambled ahead about 20'through the enclosed low-angle chute and popped out at the bottom of a nice crack, where we reconfigured to start the 3rd pitch.
After ascending the crack, we headed right a short way to reach the belay at the large blocks (with about 3 ft of rope left.) Thinking that we still had one more pitch, we were relieved to see it was just a short scramble back to begin what looked like a long scramble to the top of Tunnel Vision for the walk off. Again we were relieved that it was a reletively short distance to the Tunnel Vision descent. By scrambling up the large stepped slope then heading back towards the precipice, we ended up in a level park-like area that seemed as if it had been landscaped. I felt a park bench could come into view at any moment. The TV descent was easy to find, and plentifully marked with ducks.
We were quite thrilled that we had left our packs near the start of Group Therapy, thereby avoiding the scruboak gauntlet back to the base of LL......
Beta statistic: anyone much larger than a ladies' size 8 (about 38" hip measurement) will probably not fit through the squeeze chimneys.
|By Peter Blank|
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Mar 20, 2011
Great fun. Didn't realize it was such a chimney climb. Only placed about 10 protection pieces in the four pitches but easy. If you go now, take an avalanche probe with an ibis hook duct taped to the end and get a nice looking Metolious cam someone dropped in a deep tunnel on the second or third pitch. Worth climbing just to get the free gear.
From: Oakland, CA
May 14, 2011
FINALLY a route where my size is an advantage! :-)
My 5'1" frame slid right through. Neiner.
From: Scottsdale, az
Apr 17, 2012
Great climb, but it's not a 5.6, there are several sections more like 5.7-8. Take large cams, you'd need #4-5. Outstanding climb, not too many people do it, a bit of hike, but combination of good crack climbing, chimney,and bit of face... Not meant if you're not used to placing trads... Sections are steep and hard to place pro.